All You Can Eat Vol36 - Classic Crete
This week on All You Can Eat, I take
you to the Greek island of Crete where I experienced an excellent week full of
culinary tourism. In the program you will hear two of my Food For Thought documentaries, then a feature interview with the man who was our guide for these amazing adventures.
One day we started our
morning atop a mountain where shepherds (or are they goatherds?) were milking
their herd of goats.
On top of the mountain there are no
milking machines, not even any electricity to run them if there were! Instead,
the men use highly trained dogs to round up the goats from wherever they are on
the mountain, then herd them into a pen, pushing them forward so the men can
grab them and milk them by hand, rapidly squirting the milk into a large can set
into a concrete holder.
Here are my classmates MJ, Bronwen and
Betsy enjoying some fresh cheese and raki. This was all taking
place at about 10am, and raki is a fairly powerful liquor, somewhat like Italian
grappa. Hour of the day means little to the Cretans, however. When I met the
grandmother of the man whose place I was staying at around 8 one morning, she
quickly offered me a shot of grappa. Since I had already imbibed what seemed
like 25 shots in two days of our trip, I graciously declined.
From the mountain we descended a few
minutes into a village where the local cheese makers process the milk we had just
seen being obtained from the goats. They make several kinds of fresh and aged
cheeses there, which we got to taste...along with more raki!
Just when we thought we had had enough drinking for the day, and were chock full of cheese, it was back into our vans to visit another tiny mountain village...where the whole complement of villagers was waiting for us.
The typical dress for the men of
Bis-dye-ee (phonetic spelling) are these hunter-style pants, usually black or
tan, and black shirts, with a sharp knife stuck into their waistbands.
Before we went inside the village community hall we were
treated to the sight and smell of goat roasting beside hot coals. This is a
traditional way of roasting meat in Crete, skewering the meat on spikes and
resting it on stakes pounded into the ground so the fat drips away from the meat
without creating flare-ups.
When we were finished with the greetings
outside, we trooped inside the village community centre to see a
massive display of foods lining the perimeter of a large room. Each woman in the
village had brought a different traditional dish for us to try.... over 40 in
total. There were pastries made with homemade strawberry and apricot jams, tiny
fried pastry pockets filled with sweet cheese, savory pockets stuffed with
spinach or wild greens, pork with wild greens, cured olives, umpteen artichoke
dishes, rabbit and much more. There was no way we could try everything, but we
did our best, along with tasting as many homemade wines that were pressed upon
us.
The days that you hear about in the documentaries are a prime example of the kind of culinary tourism Kostas
Bouyouris wants to bring to Crete. As you saw on my blog last week, Kostas is
an agronomist who is also involved with a Soil Health association and culinary
tourism. He was with our class for the entire week and really gave us an
authentic taste of Cretan life, not just through the food, but the music, art
and above all, the people. If you are interested in reading more about what
Kostas is involved in, visit the Mediterranean Association for Soil
Health website. Much of the English side of the site is under construction,
but there is an email address to contact for further information. For culinary
tourism on Crete, which I highly recommend you experience at some point in your
life, visit the Agrion
Terra website.
SPECIAL BONUS FEATURE!!! My classmate Marta loves taking portraits, both posed and candid of all of us when we are on our field trips, or 'stages' as they are known in our program. I downloaded some software called Photoshow which allows you to mix music and photos together with some special effects, and so I sifted through all the photos and put together "Classic Crete" . It is a .wmv file and hopefully it will just start playing in whatever player you have on your computer once enough of it has downloaded. The file is about 50 megabytes. Enjoy!
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