Food Matters – Fruit Tree Projects

If you’re looking for the Feast of Fields contest, scroll to the bottom of this entry.

You can easily spot them this time of year. Trees in your neighbourhood, maybe even in your own backyard, loaded with fruit that may just fall to the ground and rot. But all is not lost. Many Vancouver Island and Sunshine Coast community groups are making sure at least some of that good food is not going to waste and that’s the Food Matters story I told Jo-Ann Roberts today on CBC Radio’s All Points West in Victoria.

A lot of the time the fruit just lies there on the ground. And rotting. And attracting pests, like wasps, or deer, or worse, rats and bears. There are a few reasons for the fruit going to waste. In some cases people simply don’t know what to do with it. There are too many apples or plums to eat all at once, or in the case of a quince tree, for example, since a quince is a fruit you need to cook, you can’t just eat it off the tree. Many people don’t have the time or the knowledge to make use of the fruit. In other cases, the yards are owned by seniors who used to take care of their trees, but they’re no longer up to climbing up ladders or carrying around heavy baskets of fruit or processing 10 pounds of apples into apple sauce.

There are many agencies operating on South Vancouver Island and the Sunshine Coast that have become very good at dealing with unwanted fruit or vegetables. In Victoria, it’s called the Fruit Tree Project, which operates as a part of Lifecycles. Holland Gidney, who is the harvest coordinator, told me the Victoria Fruit Tree project has been around since 1998, and is one of the oldest fruit tree projects in North America; they’re always getting other communities calling to find out how it works…and most of them work like this: You have a tree or trees on your property and you can’t pick or use the fruit. You call or now even register your tree or trees online, and volunteers come to pick the fruit. If you like, they will leave you with one third of it, the volunteers can take one-third for themselves, and the other third is distributed to social agencies that can make use of the fruit like food banks or school breakfast or lunch programs. In Victoria, 25 percent goes to the homeowner, 25 percent to the volunteers, and the other 50 percent goes to Lifecycles. They distribute half of that, then use the rest for their social enterprise program in which they make for sale, products like quince paste and apple cider vinegar. The past few years they’ve been sending some apples and pears to Sea Cider, and a portion of the profits from the sale of those ciders comes back to Lifecycles.
 
It really is a win-win-win situation…and check out some of these numbers…Lee Sammiya from the Nanaimo Food Share Gleaning Program tells me that since they got going in 2003 they have harvested over 126 thousand pounds of excess fruit and vegetables that would otherwise have been wasted, last year alone they did around 15 thousand pounds. In Victoria last year 36 thousand pounds were harvested, and there are plenty of apples, pears and quince come in this fall.

plums1Plums

For some reason the region is going crazy with plums this year. Holland Gidney in Victoria says they have had a ridiculous amount of plums and she’s learned that there are four different kinds of little yellow plums alone. Robin Sturley co-ordinates the FruitSave program run by Cowichan Green Community; she reports lots of plums this year as well but is anticipating her group of volunteers will be picking apples this year right through to November. You have to remember that since so much of this part of the island used to be farmland there are trees that are strewn all around on the old farmland, even some hidden orchards that not too many people know about, like the perry pear orchard found by some folks a few years ago, the fruits of which ended up in a rare perry cider made at Sea Cider.

One upside of this fruit is that since no one is really looking after the fruit trees it means that the fruit hasn’t been treated with any pesticides…so what you see is what you get. The downside of trees that have been ignored is that they probably haven’t been pruned in a very long time. That can not only decrease the yield, but also make it more difficult to pick them. Old cherry and pear trees have a tendency to grow straight up, and bear their fruit at the top of the tree which makes it not only difficult but somewhat dangerous to pick them. The FruitSave program headquartered in Duncan is trying to develop a project this year in which at least some of the trees that are being picked will get some TLC when it comes to their care, and they’re also looking at planting a community orchard as not only a food security project but as a good learning experience for everyone involved. 

All three of the people I talked to said they can always use more volunteers to help pick the fruit, this is especially the case in the Cowichan Valley this year. In Victoria they are really looking for people with Bartlett pear trees right now, they would like to get a good supply of those to Sea Cider for pear cider making.

Here are some links to agencies in the region:

LifeCycles Fruit Tree Project, Victoria

LUSH Valley Food Action Society, Comox Valley

Nanaimo Food Share Gleaning, Nanaimo

Cowichan Green Community Fruit Save, Duncan

Skookum Gleaners, Powell River

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Food Matters: Denman Bakery/Vassili’s Bread Shop

If you’re looking for the Feast of Fields contest, click here.

Loaves

When it comes right down to it, most people don’t like change. Especially when it comes to your favourite food products, including your daily bread. But change was made none-the-less when Bill Marler of the Denman Bakery on Denman Island decided to pull up stakes and relocate in nearby downtown Courtenay. Today on Food Matters, I was back from a trip to the Comox Valley and reported that mostly everyone actually seems happy with the change.

Erica and Bill MarlerErica and Bill Marler

You may have heard this expression before when people are complaining about BC Ferry rates…the tipping point. And Bill Marler reached it a little while ago. Although Bill had owned the Denman Bakery for the past 13 years, he had actually been living for a while in Courtenay. Going back and forth on the ferry every day just didn’t make financial sense anymore and was really eating into his time: “Ferry costs are astronomical these days,” he told me. “Add to that the time factor; not only do you have to be at the ferry to meet a particular deadline, but if you miss that ferry then you might be looking at another hour and half waiting. It just puts a lot more stress into the job, and you end up trying to nod off for a while sitting in vehicles on the ferry.”

So after some years of doing that suddenly everything tumbled together. Most of his wholesale business in bread was to Vancouver Island restaurants and shops. Bill’s lease on his building on Denman was up. Someone from his wife’s family had a space well-suited for a bakery that was available to rent literally just a short walk down the street from his house. So now there they are, just on the edge of downtown Courtenay on Fifth Street.  [556-5th Street, Courtenay 250-871-0880]

He hasn’t left his loyal clientele on Denman Island in the lurch without his fresh bread, though. They still deliver breads and pizzas there four or five times a week. But it’s funny how different people have been affected in different ways by the change: “Fortunately for us most of our wholesale customers are over here on Vancouver Island anyway, and people from Denman who miss us will stop by when they are over here. You kind of feel like you’ve abandoned some people, though. The ones that probably miss us most are the summer residents, people from Vancouver or Victoria who spend their summers here and would go home with twenty loaves of bread to put into their freezers, but you know, all things must pass.”

Loaves2This bakery has built up such a loyal following over the years with fairly ordinary sandwich breads and bread for toast, nothing too far outside the box, but really good quality handmade by someone you know, along with a bunch of his family members. There are a few specialties, though, including the ‘take and bake’ pizza, which Bill’s wife Erica explained to me: “Well, you just phone us and tell us what you want on your pizza. We build it for you from scratch, on its own baking sheet. You pick it up, it has baking instructions with it, you put it in the oven when you’re ready and then you never ever have cold pizza.”

Greek Specialties
Triangles and some Greek Specialties

Bill adds: “Then there are the triangles, our version of the granola bar. They’re chock full of goodness and we’re made them for a long, long time. I actually stopped making them a while ago because I totally got out of pastries, but then I had a request from a shop on Hornby Island that wanted to resell them so I started again and now they’re really popular. It’s just one of the things we do, and just like the bread, it’s all handmade and has to live up to my exacting standards, or it’s not going to go out the door.”

New Bread ShopNew Bakery Sign

I do have to make one thing clear: You may now hear people talking about this bakery by two different names. The sign outside on Fifth Street says ‘Denman Bakery presents Vassili’s Bread Shop’. Bill loves Greece, Crete in particular…goes there almost every year for vacation. And the people there are like his extended family. His nickname there is Vassili, Greek for William, and he wanted to have a little fun with this new location, so Vassili’s it is. Not a lot of his Greek friends know about the new name though, he’s just afraid that when they find out they will want him to send bread over there…

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Food Matters – Celebrating Julia Child

On this date, 100 years ago, Julia Child was born. She passed away in 2004, but the chef, cookbook author and television personality has left a huge impression on cooks all over the world. Today on Food Matters, I shared a few thoughts on the woman who is still influencing the way we cook and eat.

Dan as JuliaDan as Julia

I hate to admit it, but I think the first time I became aware of who Julia Child was came courtesy of a hilarious parody of her performed by Dan Aykroyd on Saturday Night Live back in 1978. This was long before I really got into cooking, but somehow I knew Julia was important if they were doing a parody of her on Saturday Night Live. That segment involved a lot of fake blood squirting all over the set as Aykroyd as Julia kept trying to cook after cutting her thumb. I just found out recently that the whole bleeding thumb hilarity was based on a real event when Julia Child and fellow French chef Jacques Pepin were preparing for a TV appearance on the Today show when ten minutes beforehand Julia sliced a huge chunk out of her thumb, but insisted on going on. And that insistence on carrying on was part of her charm, right from the beginning of her first clunky black and white shows on PBS in Boston in 1963. These shows were aired warts and all, whether or not the omelet missed the pan when she flipped it or the soufflé fell when it came out of the oven.

MTAFCMTAFC

Clunky or not, Julia’s shows were groundbreaking in the grand scheme of cooking on TV…that first series of The French Chef won Peabody and Emmy awards, including the first Emmy award for an educational program. Julia’s audience in those few years reached so many more people than she did with her first cookbook published in 1961, which took many years to produce, Mastering the Art of French Cooking. When Julia Child started teaching people how to cook on TV, it was a time when convenience foods were all the rage in America. The post-World War Two era was when the North American industrial food system really started to blossom with wartime chemical weapons producers now making fertilizers and developments in food technology meant much more food available in cans and in frozen packages. This went directly against everything Julia Child had learned while living in France after World War Two about fresh and seasonal…although she does acknowledge the new world of cooking in her earlier books by saying it’s okay to use frozen vegetables in some of the recipes.

Julias KitchenJulia’s Kitchen

The early books are very traditionally French, and despite being very clearly written and very instructive, not exactly the style of food I enjoy cooking; especially the ones loaded with cream and butter, but for the show today I did make Julia’s classic Coq au Vin from her 1975 cookbook, ‘From Julia Child’s Kitchen’. And I did take a short cut by using frozen, peeled miniature onions instead of taking the time to peel 20 or 30 fresh ones.

While the cuisine she became famous for teaching us how to make isn’t exactly in style today, the celebration of her achievements started in earnest in 2009, Mastering the Art of French Cooking became a best-seller then, mostly because of the very popular movie called

J and J

Julie and Julia, starring Meryl Streep in a fantastic portrayal of Julia Child…my only problem with that movie was the Julie part, the story of the blogger trying to cook every dish from Mastering the Art of French Cooking. I just wanted to know more about Julia. Right around the time the movie came out we also got to read Julia’s autobiography, My Life in France, written with her nephew Alex Prud’homme, which I found very enjoyable. Now people are taking advantage of this one hundredth anniversary of her birth with celebrations, some including fundraising dinners for the Les Dames d-Escoffier association.

Dearie
Here in Victoria those dinners are being held at Zambri’s, The Fairmont Empress Room, Gatsby’s Mansion and the London Chef. To get more Julia, there is a new biography including great detail of her early years written by Bob Spitz, called ‘Dearie: The Remarkable Life of Julia Child’, but I have to say I really love the autobiography called ‘My Life in France’ she wrote with her nephew just before she died. And you know what? The Coq Au Vin was delicious, and I would definitely make it again. To listen to my column from today and see what guest host David Lennam thought of the Coq Au Vin the audio will be posted tomorrow on this page.

In the meantime, we are continuing our contest with a chance to win a pair to tickets to the Vancouver Island edition of Feast of Fields coming up in September. We want you tell us about your favourite Vancouver Island farm. It can be farm you’ve been to at a previous Feast of Fields, or one that you visited as a child, or go to now as part of your efforts to support local farmers. Heck it could even be your own farm. Just go to the bottom of the comments at the bottom of this blog posting and tell us where the farm is and why you like it so much. One paragraph would be plenty. We’ll choose a winner from the entries.

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Food Matters – Feast of Fields Preview

Feast of Fields
Feast of Fields

The fifteenth annual Feast of Fields on Vancouver Island is fast approaching. Next month dozens of local chefs and beverage producers will spend a Sunday afternoon doling out thousands of delicious bite-sized morsels of food in an idyllic pasture. Today on CBC Radio Victoria’s All Points West show, I provided a preview, as well as a chance to win a pair of tickets for this usually sold-out event. 

Pat BarberPat Barber

Feast of Fields is very simple. You show up at a farm somewhere on south Vancouver Island with your ticket. You get a wine glass and a napkin, and you then proceed to wander around the farm, being served small bites of food crafted from local ingredients, along with sips of BC wines, beers, ciders and other beverages. There is live music to listen to, chickens and other farm animals to observe, and as Feast organizer Melanie Banas explains, a general good feeling ensues about what you’ve just eaten and how you’ve eaten it: “Usually around 4 o’clock people start sitting down and lounging in the fields, quite often they get vertical because they are so full of all the great food they’ve been eating! We like the chefs featured at Feast of Fields to use local ingredients in their dishes and to serve them on edible dishware or something that ideally you could just drop on the ground, like a leaf. Or just a simple slice of cucumber is a great thing to serve food on.”

This is one of the main fund-raising events of the year for Farm Folk-City Folk, a non-profit organization that has always been dedicated to increasing the connections between BC farmers and the people who consume their products. In the past the organization has held dozens of events and helped lots of farmers and other food producers with grants to help them get established or provide training programs. Now Melanie Banas says the way in which money is allotted has changed a bit: “Over the past 15 years we have helped a lot of individuals and organizations with grants. Now we have moved to partnering with the Island Chefs Collaborative and VanCity to administer funds through a microloan program, which we think is a great way to help create a sustainable food system in BC.”

And Melanie says there are still some spots for restaurants who want to take part in this year’s Feast of Fields, which is a great place for chefs to expose their food and get to talk with about a thousand people all in one afternoon.

Alderlea FarmAlderlea Farm

This year’s feast is being hosted by Alderlea Farm, a BC-certified biodynamic farm in Glenora, not far from Duncan in the Cowichan Valley. John and Katy Ehrlic own the farm and it certainly fits the ‘bucolic’ description. When I was there yesterday they were touring the farm with Melanie Banas and getting a sense of where all the tents sheltering the restaurants and beverage producers were going to go, logistics about parking and the movement of people to get them spread out on the farm when they arrive.

In addition to the actual growing of vegetables the Ehrlics now supply upwards of 200 families with vegetables through their community supported agriculture program which runs from May through December. People come once a week to pick up a share of that week’s harvest that they’ve paid for at the beginning of the season, which helps Farmer John with the upfront costs of each year’s plantings. Then there is the cafe at the farm, now open for 3 years, where people can have a coffee and lunches or early dinners made from farm-fresh produce.

Farmer John
Farmer John

John feels strongly about having people come to the farm, especially with their children, and that’s why he doesn’t mind opening things up to probably about a thousand people during Feast of fields.

We would like you to love it there as well. We have a pair of tickets to give away for this year’s edition of the Vancouver Island Feast of Fields on Sunday, September 16th at Alderlea Farm in Glenora…but there’s a catch: We want you tell us about your favourite Vancouver Island farm. It can be farm you’ve been to at a previous Feast of Fields, or one that you visited as a child, or go to now as part of your efforts to support local farmers. Just go to the bottom of the comments at the bottom of this blog entry and tell us where the farm is and why you like it so much. One paragraph would be plenty. We’ll choose a winner from the entries. Deadline to be determined, but don’t delay!

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Food Matters – Yes, You Can! (Canning and Preserving)

We have begun the prime part of the summer as this holiday weekend approaches. While many of us may be heading to beaches and barbecues and campgrounds for our leisure activities, you are more likely to me in my kitchen slaving over a hot stove. It’s probably because I just found a good source for pickling cucumbers. (The Root Cellar in Victoria) Anyway, I shared some of my thoughts on canning on CBC’s All Points West this afternoon.

I really do love canning. I think it’s some sort of built-in genetic code. I grew up eating my mom’s jams and pickles and relishes, and as I grew older I would help her in some aspects of the procedure that she was finding difficult because of tendonitis in her arm…milling tomatoes for the sauce, carrying big pots of bubbling juice to her canning kitchen downstairs, squeezing the crown caps onto bottles of tomato sauce and tightening the lids on her pickles. One of my fondest memories I have of her comes from the time after a long day of canning, when she finally put her feet up to read the newspaper and listen to her jar lids pop into place from the dining room table.

I didn’t pay that much attention to preserving food when I was first on my own. I moved around a lot in the early years of my radio career and adding canning equipment and jars of preserves to my moving boxes definitely wasn’t a priority. But probably by the time I bought my first house I got going on it, calling my mom for advice and building my library of canning and preserving books and pamphlets. Little did I know that I was just part of a growing trend where many younger people started to discover canning.

I think a few things sparked the trend. Some people attribute it to the recession and trying to save money, but if you were starting from scratch there is a bit of a capital investment to lids and jars and a canning pot and funnel and so on. Where you would really save money is being able to find large quantities of raw ingredients in season to process. I think where the real growth is coming from is more people wanting to capture the seasonal produce that is close to them and they want to know where it comes from. They don’t necessarily want to can huge amounts to last them through the whole season but would like to enjoy some of those summer flavours in the dead of winter. And I also think people are looking for unique gifts to give people as hostess gifts or birthday or Christmas or whatever.

You don’t have to go into this whole hog with cases and cases of fruit and vegetables to process…in fact, many of the most recent canning books that have been published specialize in small-batch canning, where we are talking about a few pints of raw ingredients instead of a few pounds. Here’s some of my favourites, old and new:

Well Preserved, by Vancouver author Mary Anne Dragan

We Sure Can, by Sarah B. Hood

Put a Lid on It! and, More Put a Lid on It! by Ellie Topp and Margaret Howard

Canning for a New Generation, Lianna Krissoff

The Joy of Pickling, Linda Ziedrich

Any of the guides published by Bernardin are also very useful. Keep in mind this company has been producing canning products for over 100 years!

You don’t really need a lot of special equipment to get started. You can get by with a small canner for boiling water processing of small jars of jams and jellies and pickles, a nice heavy-bottomed pot for cooking your jams and jellies, a good funnel and something to lift the jars out of the canner. Most of these are available in a handy, inexpensive  kit from Bernardin.  Canning does represent an investment in time, but if you are pressed for time you can still easily make your own quick pickles.  Here’s a recipe from one of the canning blogs I like to visit, Food In Jars.

Small Batch Refrigerator Pickles
makes two pints

1 quart kirby (small pickling) cucumbers (approximately 1 1/2 pounds)
3/4 cup apple cider vinegar
3/4 cup filtered water
2 teaspoons sea salt
2 teaspoons dill seed
4 garlic cloves, peeled
2 spring onions (whites only), chopped

Wash and dry kirby cucumbers. Chop ends off and slice into spears. Set aside.

Combine vinegar, water and salt in sauce pan and bring to a boil.

Equally divide the dill seed, garlic cloves and chopped onion between the two jars. Pack the cucumber spears into the jars as tightly as you can without crushing them.

Pour the brine into the jars, leaving 1/4 inch headspace. Put lids on the jars and let them cool on the counter top. Once they’re cool, put them in the refrigerator. Let cure for at least a day before eating. Pickles will keep in the fridge for up to a month.

Some other canning and preserving blogs you might want to visit include:

Well Preserved

Hungry Tigress

Canning Across America

If you missed my chat with Jo-Ann, (and her tasting my pickles and jams), you can listen by clicking here.
 

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Food Matters – Nanoose Edibles

It takes a lot of dedication and devotion to be a farmer, and of course lots of hard work. For the past 24 years the farmers at Nanoose Edibles near Nanoose Bay have been tilling the soil and providing organic fruits and vegetables not only to consumers but a wide range of restaurants as well. I was there recently for a visit and told Jo-Ann Roberts about my visit this afternoon on CBC Victoria’s All Points West program.

Barbara Ebell is one of the owners of Nanoose Edibles, along with her husband Lorne, and they’ve been farming this bucolic patch of land for over two decades now. I met Barbara at the Tofino Food and Wine Festival in June and was so fascinated by what she told me about the farm I put her on my ‘must-visit’ list for this summer, and Barbara was happy to show me around. We started at the gazebo on the edge of the farm, where there are a couple of offices for the business end of things but the view from the patio shows you the farm stretching out with both fruit and vegetable fields and the irrigation pond and a nice Canadian flag waving in the wind.

The garden was in transition when I was there, moving from just salad greens and collard greens to lots of broccoli and kale and chard along with rows and rows of broad beans. Of course, I call them by their Italian name, fava beans, and these beans have a rich history in the Mediterranean region, and like me, Barbara thinks they are vastly underrated:

“I was reading about them and then I realized they are a really great vegetable to get into when you are thinking about going vegetarian since they are high in protein, one cup of fava beans will give a woman 28 per cent of her recommended daily intake of protein, it’s 23 per cent for men.”

I brought Jo-Anne  just a little taste of fava beans, along with another favourite of mine, snap peas. My assistant blanched the shelled fava beans in salted water for a couple of minutes, along with the snap peas, fished them out and put them right into an ice water bath to set the gorgeous green colour and stop them cooking. Then into a fry pan on gentle heat with some butter and olive oil and salt and pepper and that’s it.  Oh, and a few hot pepper flakes! Thanks to my kitchen slave for the day, Meghan Kelly, for doing all the work on that dish…

Also on the farm during my visit hey were getting ready for one of their inspections by their organic certifying body. This is part of the hard work of having a certified organic farm, keeping all the paperwork, making sure all of your inputs coming onto the farm are certified organic, making sure all your workers know what to do when it comes to keeping that organic certification, But Barbara says for people who want to eat fresh food unadulterated by artificial pesticides or fertilizers and not genetically modified it’s absolutely necessary:

“It’s the only way you can be sure that you are getting a truly organic product. And I’m not going to get a young family who wants to feed their children organic food off to a bad start. Also, if it’s not certified organic there are a lot more genetically modified organisms out there and that’s not not the way we want to go.”

Barbara and Lorne have given retirement a lot more thought over the past few years. Their daughter was going to take over the farm but five years ago she was killed in a car accident. Now they would like to turn the property into a co-operative but they really want to be sure they’ve got the right people to take part in the co-op so that’s an ongoing search. Perhaps some farmers will come from the many that they have trained over the years…and have that dedication and devotion I mentioned at the beginning of this.

Contact the farm via their Facebook page here:  Nanoose Edibles. And if you missed my chat with Jo-Ann you can listen to it by clicking on this link

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