Food Matters – My Summer Reading List

Sunday Morning Attempt to ReadSunday Morning Attempt to Read

For many of us, summer vacation is the best time of year for finally getting around to reading that pile of books that has been building by the bedside, or in my case, cooking some recipes from cookbooks he’s been accumulating. Today on Food Matters Jo-Ann Roberts and I discussed some recommendations for a summer reading list with food as the main subject matter, of course.

In the summer, I’ve been known to plow through entire collections of murder mysteries from particular authors within a few weeks, and then I always have some new cookbooks on the go, as well as some magazine and periodical reading that I never seem to get around to.

But this is the time of year when we spend a lot more time at farmers’ markets and farm stands, and you will see more and more vendors and farmers advertising their produce as organic, or certified organic or spray-free, both at the markets and in grocery stores. So I’m encouraging people to do a little heavy reading first, before you do your grocery shopping. There’s a fascinating read in the business section of the New York Times that is all about what writer Stephanie Strom calls ‘Big Food’ and how it has virtually taken control of the organic food industry in North America. It’s also about a man named Michael J. Potter, founder of the company called Eden Foods, and how he thinks the whole idea of certified organic is going down the drain and how members of the National Organic Standards Board in the U-S keep the needs of Big Food business above the needs of the consumer who wants to buy more certified organic foods. The article reveals how there are more than 250 non-organic ingredients that are now allowed to be in foods certified organic by that National organization.

There was a great debate sparked in the pages of the Globe and Mail recently, with a detailed story in the Focus section about growing more food closer to where people eat it; so an emphasis on urban gardening, community gardens, landscaping city owned lands with fruit trees and vegetables free to whoever wants to pick them. One page away from that story was an opinion column by Margaret Wente who argues that producing food locally is the most wasteful way to feed the human race, and it’s also bad for the environment.

The Locavores DilemmaThe Locavore’s Dilemma

In her article she mentions a new book that I have now added to my list for this summer called The Locavore’s Dilemma, a cheeky take on Michael Pollan’s bestselling book called The Omnivore’s Dilemma on his return to locally-produced food. Wente says The Locavore’s Dilemma, by authors Pierre Desrochers and Hiroko Shimizu, systematically dismantles the cult of locavorism. Desrochers is an economic geographer and Shimizu is a policy analyst. The subtitle of the book is ‘In Praise of the 10 Thousand Mile Diet’, a shot at the 100-Mile Diet phrase we’ve become accustomed to. A blurb for the book states that it is, “Deliberately provocative, but based on scrupulous research and incontrovertible scientific evidence”.

Public ProducePublic Produce

But as with so many issues, there is always two sides to the story. For a read that once again praises the value of locally raised foods from a number of perspectives you could look up ‘Public Produce, The New Urban Agriculture’, a book published in 2009 by California-based urban designer Darrin Nordahl, who makes the point that ‘we’ve finally realized that the way we eat and procure our food is drastically affecting our quality of life.’ He advocates more growing of food in public grounds.

For something a little lighter: I have a fairly large cookbook collection and I’ve been becoming more fascinated by the history of cookbooks. So this summer I am looking forward to browsing through a copy of “The Cookbook Library: Four Centuries of the Cooks, Writers, and Recipes That Made the Modern Cookbook”. It is co-authored in part by Anne Willan, the founder of the La Varenne cooking school. By the time I finish this book I expect I will have a much better idea of how our food culture has evolved through the years because of cookbooks AND find out when forks were invented.

Made In SicilyMade In Sicily

I am always dreaming of another visit to Sicily, home of my ancestors and home of some of the most interesting Mediterranean cooking around…now I can go to Sicily through the eyes and recipes of Giorgio Locatelli. He is an Italian chef, now based at a restaurant in London called Locanda Locatelli. His first book, which is also a great read, is called Made in Italy, and Made in Sicily came out earlier this year. It’s big tome, but it has amazing stories of Locatelli’s travels throughout Sicily and of course hundreds of recipes to try…including one my aunt used to make at Christmas all the time called cucciadati, a shortbread pastry enclosing a dried fruit filling.

Magazines Worth A Look: Lucky Peach, Jamie, and Taps(Canadian beer scene).

Age of Doubt
Age of Doubt

I think I may have mentioned these before but they are worth mentioning again, the Inspector Montalbano series by Andrea Camilleri, another Italian author who writes murder mysteries based in Sicily. The latest novel is called The Age of Doubt. Camilleri’s hero, Salvo Montalbano, has food on his mind all the time, and you can probably find the recipes for the dishes detailed in the book in the Made in Sicily cookbook!

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Food Matters – Grilling and Barbecue Accessories

My New BBQMy New BBQ

Just like summer, the outdoor barbecue season has finally arrived, and with it the opportunity to move the heat from inside your kitchen outside to your barbecue. Today on Food Matters, I talked to All Points West host Jo-Ann Roberts with some tips on the best accessories to help you enjoy your outdoor cooking this summer.

You might think that a guy like me would use his barbecue year round. I DO use my barbecue most of the year, but when we went through that cold and rainy stretch I just didn’t feel like going outside, I roasted chickens and braised lamb shanks instead. Now, I am ready to go out there and grill, especially since I just got a brand-new propane barbecue to play with!

DELUXEbookPlaying means using some tools and tips to go beyond the simple application of vegetables or proteins to the grill. Because I am getting a fresh start I called up my barbecue mentor, yes, I have a barbecue mentor, his name is Ron Shewchuk, he is an International Barbecue Championship and is the author of the cookbooks Barbecue Secrets Deluxe and Planking Secrets. I called him on Skype and talked to him from what he affectionately calls his ‘Fortress of Smokitude’ in North Vancouver. The first accessories we talked about were pizza stones, which are getting more and more popular. Ron says there are even stones made specifically to fit particular barbecues, and he loves the idea that you can recreate wood-burning oven texture and flavour with them:  “You can pre-heat the grill with the pizza stone in it up to the point where you have the temperature that will make the pizza crust nice and crisp, but you an also add a chunk of hardwood to the grill, put it right above the burner as the pizza is cooking and you’ll get that smoky flavour and aroma just like you would in a wood-burning oven, it’s fantastic!”

Smoke is probably the one thing that is missing when you are using a propane barbecue. You’ve got the heat and the convenience but not that wood flavour you get on charcoal barbecues or smokers. The next accessory we discussed was the rotisserie. Ron admitted that he didn’t use a rotisserie for a while since he kept losing all the parts! But now he has a new grill that came with a rotisserie and he really loves it. I used to use mine a fair amount until the propane pipe leading to that burner developed a leak, so forget that. Of course my old rotisserie motor and spit don’t fit my new barbecue. But Ron says it is really worthwhile getting a rotisserie for its ability to create a great crust all around whatever you’ve got on the spit, whether you have a special burner for it or not: “The BBQ that I have has a special infrared burner above the surface of the grill so you are already getting indirect heat, and the key with the rotisserie cooking is that you don’t want to apply too much direct heat to whatever you are cooking. What I do is put the rotisserie burner on the top, and then the two burners on either side of my roast or chicken on high heat so that it more like an oven inside, but without the danger of potentially burning your chicken or roast.”

Chicken on a ThroneChicken on a Throne

I haven’t had a chance to buy my rotisserie yet, so what I used instead for the show today was a classic beer can chicken recipe. But I have a special holder I call the chicken throne. It’s a ceramic container, wide at the bottom and narrow at the top to insert into the cavity of the chicken. I poured half a beer in the throne, yes, I drank the other half, slapped some rub on the chicken, used indirect heat as Ron recommended, and one hour later I had a beautiful, moist roast chicken.

The other dish I brought in was some slow-cooked and smoked barbecue pork side ribs. I do have a rib rack to use for large quantities, because Ron says ribs can take up a lot of space on your grill and a good rack allows you to stack them in an upright position so you can fit more on the grill. This one kind of looks like one of those file organizers you might keep on your desk. The one accessory Ron says you don’t really need is a fancy holder for your wood chips or pellets you are using to add the smoke. Just make a little packet out of tin foil and stab it with a knife a few time so the smoke can get out, and put it just above the burner, and that’s all you need to do, with one thing to remember: ” My experience is that you don’t really need to soak your wood chips or pellets in water before you put them on to smoke. Soaking them sometimes means they smoke too much, and then you just get the overpowering taste of the smoke and nothing else.”

I coated the ribs in a Cajun rub, refrigerated them overnight, then put them on the grill at about 250F for about three hours. While they were on I basted them a few times with a fruit juice, apple cider vinegar and bourbon mixture, then finally brushed them with my homemade raspberry chipotle sauce. To listen to my conversation with Jo-Ann, visit the Food Matters section of the All Points West website.

To listen to my entire conversation with Ron Shewchuk via Skype (I apologize for the lack of audio quality in some spots), just click here for the mp3:

One more note: Last Friday Vancouver-based celebrity chef Anthony Sedlak was found dead in his North Vancouver apartment. His family said he died from ‘a previously undiagnosed medical condition’. He was just 29 years old.  I had met Anthony a couple of times, just as he started his career on Food Network Canada.  In 2007 I did a feature on him for my ‘Food For Thought’ radio column.  You can listen to that column by visiting my blog post for that week, right here.

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Food Matters – Historic Cowichan Valley Winery and TASTE preview

It looks as though summer weather is finally arriving on Vancouver Island, enticing more of us to get out and about this part of the province, so why not explore the world of food and win? I got a head start with a visit to a history-making vineyard last weekend.

BCCoastalcoverlrIf you go way back, and you can by checking into John Schreiner’s excellent BC Coastal Wine Tours book, the first wines commercially produced on Vancouver Island were in 1923 by a company called Grower’s Wines on Quadra Street in Victoria. For years, all of the commercially made wines here were made from berries, loganberries and blueberries. Luckily we weren’t around then to taste them. Grape wines didn’t really get under way here until the early 1990’s including those made at Cherry Point Estate Winery, where I met up last weekend with the original owners of the Cherry Point winery, Wayne and Helena Ulrich.

1(old and new owners at Cherry Point Estates – l to r: Helena and Wayne Ulrich, winemaker Dean Canadzich, Xavier and Maria-Clara Bonilla)

What did they know about winemaking when they got started? Not a lot. Wayne was an Agriculture Canada lending officer, attracted to the winemaking business by some of the clients he dealt with who were starting wineries. The land they purchased in Cobble Hill had been a mink ranch, but in 1990 they planted some of the 34 acres of land they bought with whatever kinds of grapevines they could get their hands on that they thought would do well on that piece of land with its particular climate.  Right now they grow only a few are the varieties most consumers are familiar with, such as Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Pinot Noir, but they have a total of 18 varieties in production now, including some lesser-known names like Agria, Ortega, Seigerrebe and Castel. And that brings me to the Ortega…

3

Ortega is a German varietal made in 1948 from a cross between Muller-Thurgau and Siegerrebe. It’s named in honour of the Spanish poet and philosopher Jose Ortega y Gasset. Wayne always enjoyed working with it because it was early ripening and a real pleasure to work with when it came to getting good flavour from it.

2

Now fast-forward from 1990 to 2012...the latest owners of the winery are Xavier and Maria-Clara Bonilla, and along with their winemaker Dean Canadzich, they have come up with a double-gold award winning Ortega in the All Canadian Wine Awards. It is incredibly aromatic, fruity and flowery, but with a nice hit of crisp acidity on the palate. Dean notes that this harvest from 2011 had to be handled very carefully, it came from a good crop of three different blocks of Ortega on the property, he says you can get peach and grapefruit from the soil and apricot in the finish.

If you want to enjoy wine tasting like this you can certainly get out to the wineries and cideries and meaderies of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands, taste their products, eat at their bistros, or if you’re short of time, you can also taste of lot of wines from the Island and the rest of BC at Taste: Victoria’s Festival of Food and Wine, coming up July 19th to the 22nd. I was talking to founder Kathy McAree today about a few of the highlights, and she puts forth an interesting concept. At the Main Event on Thursday the 19th at the Crystal Garden, there will be 38 different wine and beverage producers pouring. While you can’t possible taste everything they’ll have on offer, you will be able to sample a few, and when you hit a winery you like, add it to your list to visit during your travels this summer when you can have a much more leisurely time in the tasting rooms…so it’s like a travel planner.

4Kathy McAree

Some of the separate food and wine events over the weekend sound really great. You can learn about sustainable seafood from Finest at Sea owner Bob Fraumeni along with some BC beverages at the Sips and Seafood event on Friday night and Saturday afternoon you can watch, and then eat, as a whole pig is roasted on the patio of the Hotel Grand Pacific.

If you want to listen to my chat with Jo-Ann Roberts about this topic, click here.

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Upcoming Classes – Summer and Fall 2012

I can tell people are getting soggy with this early summer of rain and chilly temperatures on the West Coast.  You’re thinking about taking classes…in a classroom! That’s great, because I have a wide selection for you to choose from through my affiliation with UBC Continuing Studies.

First up, it’s my crash course in Food and Travel Writing.This is a one-week intensive course at the UBC Point Grey campus taking place July 16-20. Enrolment closes on Monday, July 9th. 

Over the course of the week, I explain how the freelance food and travel writing processes work, with special attention paid to generating ideas and expressing them in query letters to editors. Other topics covered include travel blogging, restaurant reviewing,  recipe writing, and how to make your travel story stand out from all the others. By the end of the week, you should have a saleable query letter to send out and the first draft of a story, with my personal feedback on your writing and story structure.

Don Cherry PointSay you are just really into creating a food blog…so you can document your adventures in eating. Spend a day with me and WordPress blogging platform expert Tris Hussey at the UBC Robson Campus on Saturday, September 15th. I’ll show you how to develop and maintain your food blog content will give you tips on themes, promotion and writing to attract a larger audience. I’ll also demonstrates the basics of food photography for your blog, and show you how good photography can be done without fancy props and expensive equipment. Taking your new content, learn to build a blog with Tris Hussey using the WordPress blogging platform. Learn the basics, add features and themes, and find out how to tune your blog for search engines. You will have your own food blog by the end of the day! 

Looking into the fall, you have more choices. If you don’t want to commit to being on campus every week, you can take either food writing or travel writing online, over eight weeks, starting at the end of September. Both classes teach you the basics of the freelance writing process, but allow you to specialize in the field of your choice. New reading material and assignments are posted to a special website every week, and I give everyone individual feedback on your writing.

The UBC Writing Centre is also offering my Food and Travel Writing Course at UBC Robson Square in a ten-week session beginning September 27th. Classes run from 5:30-7:30pm, so if you work downtown you can just stay after work and join in.

There’s one more class for you to consider this fall that is not a writing class but a chance to learn much more about the food you shop for and eat. It’s called ‘Greening Your Grocery List’. It’s almost like you have to be a detective or food scientist these days to figure out what you’re getting when you go shopping for groceries. This course will help you sort through those mysterious words on your food labels. I’ll also explain what the words ‘organic’ and ‘sustainable’ really mean and how some companies try to gain your business through the practice of ‘greenwashing’. Other topics include sustainable seafood, dairy products, the 100-Mile Diet and buying guides to products like olive oil, coffee and meats.

To register or get more information on any of these courses just click on the links. If you have any questions, put them in the comments section below and I’ll answer them there. Hope to see you in-person or online soon!

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Food Matters – Harbour House Hotel Restores Farm

We are very blessed with a moderate climate in this part of British Columbia. In spite of our very rainy spring, stuff grows. Sometimes it grows so much it obliterates anything in its path, including great gardening areas. Today on Food Matters, I told a story of beating back the growth, with delicious results.

DSC 0085Behind the Harbour House Hotelon Salt Spring Island lies a farm, about three and a half acres. But over the years it had fallen into disuse. The current owners decided it was time to put it back into production, but it was a slow process. Rob Scheres  is the farm manager. He took me for a tour of the property about a month ago, and looking at the wonderful plots of fruits and veggies already growing in mid-May, it was hard to imagine what it used to be like, but Rob filled me in. “It was an old farm that hadn’t been taken care of since the 1950’s. It was completely overgrown with blackberry and alder, but when we started to clear it we found old irrigation systems and other stuff showing the old farm. It took us about 3 or 4 years to get it all cleared and the soil ready, and then we started.”

DSC 0069Rob and his crew are now into their third full growing season, so this has been a seven year project in total so far, and they growing almost everything that a restaurant needs. The farms operates as a separate entity from the hotel, so it ‘sells’ most of its crops to the hotel restaurant. But they have lots of berry bushes, tayberries, boysenberries, raspberries, strawberries, which have staggered harvest times so there is always something for the restaurant desserts, including rhubarb…beets, peas, herbs, jalapeno peppers, Jerusalem artichokes , tomatoes and even quinoa! Then there are the beehives producing honey and on other parts of the property they tap big leaf maple trees for maple syrup. So they do a pretty good job of being the main supplier to the Harbour House restaurant, and it’s all organic, and it’s always in season, according to Rob: “We keep the restaurant going all year round. We can’t supply them with things like potatoes and tomatoes all year, but we do give them tomatoes about five to six months of the year, and things like greens, those are sent to the restaurant all year round, so they don’t have to go to an outside source to buy any of that.”

Like any garden, though, there are pests. In one of the greenhouses the soil they brought in had too much wood fibre in it which attracted wood bugs. They like to chew around the stems of the tomato plants there, so Rob started putting little piles of horse manure and some trimmings from greens on top and the wood bugs prefer that, and then they can just go and scoop up the manure and tons of wood bugs along with it. Then I was admiring some of the beautiful peas that were growing, and Rob told me the secret of their success: “We started them off inside in pot, to get the roots nice and strong. Otherwise we had mice that were coming in and chewing off everything below the dirt and killing them. Sure, it’s labour intensive, but we get a much fuller crop and it pays off in the long run.”

The other thing about Rob is that he is very ingenious about re-purposing things to cut down on costs. An old canopy from the hotel entrance got turned into a greenhouse, he’s using old eaves troughs to create lighting fixtures, and hand-built an under-bed heating system using one of those smaller on-demand water heaters in his propagation shed which probably saved thousands of dollars alone.

In the restaurant, every main course is served with seasonal vegetables from the farm…in the morning at breakfast you’re eating preserves made from the fruits brought in, or how about this for brunch, a West Coast breakfast bun with Candied Salmon and fried egg, served with Tomato Relish, SSI Goat’s Cheese, Arugula and Basil Aioli, with the tomatoes, arugula and basil all coming from the farm.

Photo1I did feed Jo-Ann something today, not from the Harbour House menu but an idea I got from a food truck in Portland that specializes in biscuits. Would you believe rosemary buttermilk biscuits with fresh strawberries and vanilla whipped cream?

Here is the lowdown on the biscuits from Blues City Biscuits in Portland and the recipe I used to make them, from the eatmakeread blog.To listen to my chat with Jo-Ann Roberts on All Points West, click here.

Welcome to the Garden Peas Red Leaf Lettuce In The Greenhouse Apple Blossoms Gardener Rob Scheres Bountiful Harvest! Happy Goats With Friend

 

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Food Matters – Chef Competitions

pasta 101We spend a lot of time in our kitchens, they’re known as the busiest room in the house. But we also spend lots of time in the kitchens of reality shows, judging by the number of them on TV these days. How do these chef battles end up effecting the way we eat? I examined that  question today on Food Matters.

My favourite TV chef competition over the past few months has been Top Chef Canada. While the show is edited to create drama and sometimes build simulated tension between the competitors, most of the cooking challenges are real, we get to see real chefs use real Canadian products and the judging is tough but fair.

Mark Lisa and Shereen homeSeason Two just came to an end a couple of weeks ago and BC was very well-represented, Canada’s new Top Chef Carl Heinrich hails from Sooke, and runner-up Trevor Bird, who was working at Vancouver’s Shangri-la Hotel, has just opened a new restaurant in Kitsilano. I’m also a fan of Chopped, which features real chefs showing their stuff in very tight time trials.

HellsKitchenMy least favourite competition show has to be Hell’s Kitchen with Gordon Ramsay. I actually stopped watching it a couple of years ago because I didn’t believe any of the contestants had any culinary talent and were strictly chosen by personality types and I can’t stand a chef that just stands there and yells at people and abuses them. That just doesn’t happen as much in commercial kitchens any more…and I think Ramsay is just putting on an act for the cameras.

Iron Chef Masaharu MorimotoIron Chef Masaharu Morimoto

Then there is Iron Chef.  I had a chance in 1999 to join then-Vancouver chef Michael Noble in Tokyo as he competed against Chef Morimoto in the original Japanese version of Iron Chef….the cooking was real but everything else, including the judging, in my belief, was done to further story lines and like the American version of Iron Chef, has more the air of professional wrestling than professional cooking. The directors want outrageous and they’re not afraid to coach the competitors to give them what they want.

But we still watch these shows…because we want to be entertained and we like to watch people fail and succeed. Where the really serious cooking takes place is in some of the competitions that never make it to North American television. I’m talking about contests for which chefs train for years to try to make it to the top. The money or trophies or medals they may win would never make up for the time and money spent on practicing, but we are eventually the beneficiaries of all the skill and experience gained by these chefs at competitions.

Paul BocusePaul Bocuse

We develop some of our finest chefs in competitions like the Bocuse d’Or in France, the World Pastry Cup and the World Culinary Olympics. Then when you start looking around at some of the top restaurants and even restaurant chains and you’ll find that many of the executive chefs and their sous chefs have taken part in these competitions. If you go to any Joey’s Restaurant in Canada you can rest assured that the menu was devised by Vancouver chef Chris Mills, a competitor in the Bocuse d’Or and the assistant in Iron Chef Japan to chef Michael Noble. For years Noble was involved with the Canadian Bocuse d’Or teams, Culinary Team Canada, and he also helped to change all the Earl’s restaurant menus to a better experience. One of his mentors was Bruno Marti of La Belle Auberge Restaurant in Ladner, who really helped put Canada on the map with several gold medals earned at the World Culinary Olympics and a World Championship in Frankfurt back in 1982. His partner at La Belle Auberge, Tobias MacDonald, is a competitor himself, but also the coach of the Canada’s Junior National Culinary Team, which brings me to Cowichan Bay this coming Sunday, June 24th.

Junior Culinary TeamJunior Culinary Team

On Sunday night the Junior National Culinary Team will do a full practice for their run at the World Culinary Olympics in Germany in October. About 75 lucky diners will get to eat the results of the practice at the Oceanfront Suites in Cowichan Bay, a four course meal made up of the dishes they will serve at the Olympics. I’ve been watching some video of them practicing and some of them are so young it’s hard to believe how good they are…and they stand a very, very good chance against the world powers in culinary talent.

This team has recently been competing against senior teams in contests in Ireland and Korea. In Korea they won a gold medal and finished in second place overall by less than half a point! In Ireland the team earned a silver in the cold program and a gold in the hot program. For people at the dinner in Cowichan Bay there will be video clips of the team to watch as part of the show as well as some live music. It’s only 65 dollars a ticket for the four course meal including tax and tip, and as of yesterday there were just ten tickets left. Call 250-746-4510 to purchase tickets or check with the Oceanfront Suites

You can watch video of the team in action on their website, where you will also find  some recipes you can try as well. So that’s one way they influence what we cook and eat, and when you look at something like the new restaurant Top Chef runner-up Trevor Bird has opened in Vancouver called ‘Fable’, short for Farm to Table, an idea spawned during his time taping the TV show, that’s another influence on how we eat…yet another chef being inspired by a more sustainable way of cooking for the masses.

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