Food Matters – The First One

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This is food, not decoration

Today on CBC Radio Victoria’s All Points West show I started a new column is called ‘Food Matters’, and I like that name because it has a double meaning. Food Matters is partly about food issues or matters, and they are the kind of issues that do ‘matter’ to us as we go about our everyday lives.

I’m going to focus a lot on sustainable food matters. I want to help our listeners try to navigate what has become quite a maze of information and misinformation and clever advertising and marketing and try to get to the heart of the matter: How should you eat if you want to be good to yourself and your family, and how to eat so that you are good to the planet. So some of the ‘Food Matters’ columns will give you tips on how and why you should choose sustainable seafood, for example. What the heck is a free-range chicken vs. a free-run chicken, or egg? What kind of questions should you be asking a farmer that has a sign that says, ‘no spray’ at your neighbourhood farmers market? Is grass-fed beef really that much more healthy for you than grain-fed, and how does the way it is raised impact the environment?

Just Food
Just Food

At the same time I want to look at some modern conventions. I’ve been looking at and collecting a vast amount of information over the past few years about sustainability. For example, one book I’ve been reading lately by James McWilliams called Just Food makes a case for genetically modified crops, floating algae from the sea as protein and mass food production as the best way to feed the world. He’s an associate professor of history at Texas State University and has been called an ‘honest environmentalist’, so he’s just not spouting off random opinions. Another issue I will look at is aquaculture. Does salmon farming really deserve the bad rap it’s been given in British Columbia? How did it get the big target painted on it?
 

Each time I sound off on one of these issues, I will also publish a blog entry where I will put as many links to articles as possible and detail some of the conversations I’ll be having with people in the sustainable food field so that our listeners can play a role in all of this. We want to hear your opinions as well and find out how you make your decisions when it comes to choosing the food you eat. Is it with your pocketbook? To satisfy the particular needs or cravings of your family? Or have you been influenced by the marketing and labelling? My most famous example of misleading labelling comes from the frozen fruits and vegetables found in most grocery stores under the trade name ‘Europe’s Finest’. But turn the package over and most of what’s inside has actually been grown in China or Chile! Also, if there’s a sustainable food topic you’d like me to explore please feel free to contact me through All Points West or by direct email at don at dongenova dot com.

The column that I did on All Points West for the past couple of years was called Island Artisans, and that’s not going to totally disappear. To see past columns just click here for the archives. Every other week I will still bring you visits I make to artisan food producers, chefs and farmers from around Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Over the next couple of months I’ll bring you stories from the cider apple crush at Merridale Cider…that’s a company just down the street from where I live in Cobble Hill where Rick Pipes and Janet Docherty took an old cider apple orchard and fairly dilapidated apple press and have turned it into quite an agritourism attraction, with a cafe serving local foods, a wood-fired oven and a beautiful banquet facility.

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The Big Can  

Then I’ll take you to Nanaimo where St. Jean’s Cannery has just celebrated its 50th anniversary in business, and that’s in an era where many canneries have gone out of business. Instead, this cannery has expanded and just manufactured the largest salmon can in the world! Of course there will be more pictures of that on my blog in the weeks ahead. It’s all called Food Matters, because, you know, food DOES matter to each and every one of us.

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Pumpkin Palooza Pictures

I still need a few more students for my Pumpkin Palooza cooking class this Wednesday night at Cook Culture.  I ran through a few of the dishes tonight, and here are some photos of what you could be enjoying at this all-vegetarian class….so don’t hesitate to sign up!

Pumpkin Agrodolce
Pumpkin Agrodolce

Pumpkin Agrodolce is pumpkin or squash that has been cooked in a pan with olive oil and garlic and then drenched in a delicious blend of vinegar, sugar, cinnamon, and mint, with a touch of hot pepper. Sweet and sour never tasted so good!

Pumpkin Risotto
Pumpkin Risotto
Tortelli di Zucca
Tortelli di Zucca

How about some risotto made with fragrant vegetable stock, arborio rice, and pumpkin puree? Oh yeah, and some diced agrodolce and Parmigiano-Reggiano to finish it off?

Tortelli di Zucca are pumpkin-stuffed ravioli, flavoured with amaretti cookies and served with a sage-butter sauce. The cookies are an unusual ‘secret ingredient’ that helps bring the filling to life with a sweetness to balance the earthiness of the crispy sage leaves.

Pumpkin Bourbon Beignets
                         Pumpkin Bourbon Beignets

Then how about some pumpkin bourbon beignets? Yeah, topped with maple sugar and icing sugar…

Hope to see you in class Wednesday night!

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Pumpkin-Palooza and Pickles

 
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Really Orange Pumpkins

I’m getting very excited about a class I’m teaching next Wednesday night, October 5th at Cook Culture in Victoria.  It’s called Pumpkin-Palooza, and it’s an all-vegetarian class designed to show you some really neat and easy things you can do with pumpkin, or squash, which is around everywhere this time of year.  How about a pumpkin beignet to greet you, and then a few dynamite Italian dishes like tortelli di zucca, squash risotto and zucca agridolce (sweet and sour pumpkin) to nibble on as I demonstrate the recipes.  Dessert will be something like a pumpkin chiffon cake or something equally decadent. Call 250-590-8161 to register or click on this link to take you to an on-line registration system.

My Pickles and Preserves
My Pickles and Preserves

If it’s one thing I love making, and eating, it is pickled and preserved foods. I grew up eating all kinds of pickled cucumbers, pickled beets, beans, onions and more, all prepared at the expert hands of my mom and my aunties. Now I make my own pickles and I guess I have become enough of an expert to be asked to judge a neat pickle contest that everyone in BC can enter, but you have to do it…uh, right now! Here are some details:

This Saturday (October 1st, 2011) home canners and amateur chefs are invited to submit their pickles for the first round of a BC-wide pickle contest. Drop your best pickles off at four Farmers Markets, or send them directly to the judging office by Oct 3rd, and have your pickles judged by a panel of food writers, chefs and “pickle experts”. The top eight pickles will move forward to a live pickle tasting on Saturday, October 15th at the Trout Lake Farmers’ Market.

Pickles can be dropped off this Saturday at Trout Lake Farmers’ Market in Vancouver; Moss Street Market in Victoria; Penticton Community Market in the Okanagan and the Haney Farmers’ Market in Maple Ridge BC or sent directly to the judging office. The winner receives an all expense paid, airfare included, trip for two to Montréal, dinner at Montréal’s Dunn’s Famous Restaurant Deli and pickles for life at the first Western Canadian Dunn’s location in Vancouver and runners up will receive consolation prizes.

Contestants must supply an original pickle recipe along with no less than a total of 30 pickles in sealed glass jars, whole or whole spears pickling cucumbers only. Pickles can be dropped off on Saturday, October 1st at the Dunn’s pickle contest table located at four farmer’s markets in Vancouver, Victoria, Penticton and the Fraser Valley. Using a point system for flavour, presentation, taste and texture eight finalists will be chosen by secret ballot. The pickles from the eight finalists will be judged live at Trout Lake Farmers’ Market at 11am Saturday, October 15th with the grand winner chosen and runners up prizes distributed to the rest of the finalists.

Complete details and registration can be found at this link. Good luck!  And good luck to me as well, as one of the judges.  I hope these pickles are as good as mine 😉

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Island Artisans – Jose’s Wine

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These are some special bottles. Only 144 of them made. Jose’s Tempranillo from Rocky Creek Winery on Vancouver Island.

British Columbia wines have come a long way over the past 30 years or so. After pulling the cork on sweet, fizzy fare such as Cold Duck and Baby Duck, BC wineries have been steadily improving and creating dozens of wines that have won awards both in North America and around the world. But you can only do so much with the climate Mother Nature gives you. Today on Island Artisans, I shared the story of a Vancouver Island winemaker who defied the odds and produced an unusual wine for this region, all in the memory of the man who planted the vines.

The tale starts with a man who decided to grow a certain variety of grape in the Cowichan Valley, a grape that most other growers would say you’re crazy to plant. It ends with another man who took these improbable grapes and made them into the first tempranillo wine in BC. Tempranillo is a wine variety very popular in Spain and gaining popularity in South America.

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The man who made the wine is Mark Holford of the Rocky Creek Winery. Unfortunately, the man who planted the vines, Jose Rodrigo, passed away from cancer before the first harvest of those grapes could be turned into wine. But his dream didn’t die. Jose’s widow, Sue Yates, kept the vineyard going, and met Mark Holford at a Cowichan Valley grape grower’s meeting. He was fascinated by her story of the tempranillo and said, ‘if you ever need someone to make wine from these grapes I’m your guy’. “A couple of years ago I got a call from Sue, who said that the grapes were ready and she would like me to have a go at making wine from them.”

These grapes, which can stand a cooler climate, still need a lot of heat to ripen to the stage where they will make a good wine. They were planted in 2004, and in the spring of 2009, Sue basically pitched some tenting over the vines to shelter them from any cold and rainy weather, and that worked. The grapes ripened later that summer. The grapes fermented, Mark applied the proper yeast and whatever other winemaking techniques he could call on, and he had to buy a special small French oak barrel to age the wine in…and cases of smaller bottles with the special closure they use at Rocky Creek. The small barrel was necessary because when all was said and done, there was only enough wine to fill a small barrel instead of a large one, and it all worked out to just 144 500-millilitre bottles. He could have cut some corners, used some cheaper methods, but he wanted to make the best possible wine that he could make with these grapes, to honour the man that had the belief and vision to plant them.
 

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Jose’s Tempranillo

I had to crack open the piggy bank for this one. Each 500-ml bottle of Jose’s Tempranillo costs $50, which makes it the most expensive bottle of red wine on Vancouver Island, but ten dollars from each bottle goes to the Canadian Cancer Society and knowing the amount of work that went into this wine Mark is probably just going to break even on it. If you buy a bottle and taste it right away, keep in mind that even though this wine has aged for 2 years, it really should be put in the cellar for at least a couple of more years and even more if you can….but I am sacrificed my bottle in the interests of good radio! I think Mark did a really good job on this wine, have it with some food so help you mellow the tannins a bit. More than half the bottles have been sold already, so get in touch with the winery if you’re interested in buying!

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Island Artisans – Cowichan Wine & Culinary Festival

  With the somewhat late arrival of summer in BC this year it feels like the harvest and its related festivals are all being piled into the weekends of September. This weekend is no exception, as the seventh Cowichan Wine and Culinary Festival kicks off tomorrow night with a very special dedication to the late James Barber, the Urban Peasant. 

James was a big fan of Providence Farm, a non-profit organization in the Cowichan Valley that provides a number of services to the community, including a market garden, nursery, and community kitchen.  Tomorrow night,(September 15th) as part of the festival, a special fund-raising event is taking place in his name.  It’s put on by the Cowichan Chefs’ Table and features some of the area’s top chefs, including Bill Jones of Deerholme Farm, Brock Windsor of Stone Soup Inn and special guest chef Robert Clark from C Restaurant in Vancouver.  Some of the food will come out of a wood-burning oven, which will be dedicated to James Barber tomorrow night. James actually had a hand in building this oven up island some years ago at a workshop with a woman named Carol Spencer.  Bill Jones (pictured at the oven) told me that the chefs putting on the Canadian Chefs Congress at Providence Farm wanted to build an oven as a legacy facility to thank Providence Farm, and do it in James’ name. But Carol Spencer said she would donate her oven.  Bill and a couple of other chefs went up island to get the oven…which turned out to weigh 27 thousand pounds!

A few different cranes and a truck ride later, the oven made it to Providence Farm, was used at the Chefs’ Congress, and the Cowichan Chefs’ Table will affix a commemorative plaque to the oven tomorrow night, get more details here.

As for the rest of the Cowichan Wine & Culinary Festival, it’s a great combination of visits and ticketed events like farm-to-fork dinners and the aforementioned James Barber fundraiser.  I hope to visit farms like Organic Fair where they are putting on a special lunch menu this weekend, topped off with the amazing ice cream they make there, there will be tastings and cooking demos in Cowichan Bay where you can put together visits to Hilary’s Cheese, True Grain Bakery and Cowichan Bay Seafood, and it’s that kind of food diversity that Festival  Director Mike Hanson loves to talk about: “It’s the discovery, being able to visit new farms, wineries that are doing some great wines, food and friends.”  Don’t be put off by the weather forecast, quite often when it is raining in Victoria it is still bone dry in the Cowichan.  Chances are you will see me wandering around somewhere this weekend, including the Borscht Competition at Alderlea Farm!

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How to Go Back to School and Have Fun at the Same Time

I realize that the picture at left is probably not the kind of cafeteria food you expect to see during the first week of school. But it is a picture that goes perfectly on a food blog..and this could be a picture on YOUR food blog, and I can teach you how to do it.

Admit it, you’re just a little jealous of the kids going back to school with new notebooks and pens and pencils and you wish you could go back to school, too, even if it were just for a day.  Well, you can.  On Saturday, September 17th, at UBC’s Robson Square campus, I’m teaching a class called ‘Building and Promoting a Food Blog’.

I’ll be the food journalist guy teaching you how to come up with a theme for your blog, how to keep the content fresh and enjoyable to read, and how to get people to read it!

The ‘web’ guy who is going to teach you how to actually construct your blog and get it on the internet is Tris Hussey.  I know he knows what he’s doing because he wrote that book you see on the left, ‘Using WordPress’.  By the time we finish with you on Saturday the 17th you’ll not only have a blog constructed on WordPress, but some content to put on it! Click here to register or call 604-822-9564 to speak with the charming folks at the UBC Writing Centre.  Bring your laptop and get ready for some tasty learning…

If you are hankering for something a little more hefty to chew on, I have other courses available as well. This year the UBC Writing Centre and I have split my Food and Travel Writing courses into Food Writing courses, in-person and online, and Travel Writing courses, in-person and online.

This way if you are really interested in one topic but not the other you can rest assured that most of the curriculum is spent on either food or travel.  There will probably be one class out of the eight that will cross over into the other realm as almost all Travel Writing has some mention of food in it, and Food Writing can always have an element of travel.

But the important concepts of how to turn your ideas and experiences into stories, how to pitch editors and how to make your writing come alive are covered in all the courses. Food is Monday nights, Travel is Tuesday nights at the UBC Point Grey Campus in October and November.

If you can’t commit to being somewhere at the same time for eight weeks in a row, and I know I have that problem myself sometimes, you can opt for the online version of the courses, and do your readings and assignments from anywhere in the world….yes, even your favourite neighbourhood coffeeshop.

All the courses feature personalized feedback and constructive criticism from me and a chance to interact with some of my fellow writers and an editor or two during guest lecture/chat situations. More info?  Ready to register?  Click here.  Hope to see you soon….

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