Island Artisans – Hot Sauce!

DSC_5781 Today on Island Artisans the blistering truth came out:  Vancouver Island artisans make excellent hot sauces!

Our palates are wonderful things.  They can taste the sweet, plummy undertones of a red wine, the saltiness of an olive, the sour in a dill pickle, and of course, the heat of a hot pepper.  How much we like that heat, or even stand the heat, is very much a matter of personal taste.  The idea of capturing the heat of a pepper in a hot sauce condiment has been around for a long time, but people keep on inventing new versions of it for us to try, including some discovered recently on Vancouver Island.

DSC_5790 Dad’s Westcoast Wildfire Awesome Sauce, made in Lake Cowichan.  The name is a mouthful, let’s take it apart.  The Dad is Jon Newton , father to teenager Emma.  Jon wanted West Coast in the name.  The Wildfire comes from the heat of course, but also from a wildfire the family witnessed when driving back to Lake Cowichan from Port Renfrew when they were discussing the name of the sauce.  And the ‘awesome sauce’ part?  Emma.  Apparently that’s what some people (read teenagers) say when something is really great.  Put it all together and you get  Dad’s Westcoast Wildfire Awesome Sauce.

Although Jon is the real hot sauce fan it’s his wife Liz who developed the formula and does all the cooking of the sauce.  Visiting the kitchen of their Lake Cowichan home reveals the hard work and care put into the making of the sauce. The sauce is made in small batches, jarred and labeled completely by hand. 

Jon says they got into making the sauce when the economy went into its recent downspin:
“I’ve always loved hot sauce, and when we were thinking about another way to make money it seemed like a natural; people love to eat, they love good food, a gourmet hot sauce that is local and different should work.”

DSC_5779 Liz Newton didn’t really like hot sauce, so it’s a little ironic to watch her carefully stirring the pot and ladling sauce into the jars.  “It’s the fresh peppers, ginger and garlic that make the difference in our sauce, I think.  We don’t use any preservatives and there are 18 different herbs and spices in the mix.  I grind many of the spices myself, such as the black peppercorns, just before they go into the sauce so you get the full pungency.  And I never liked hot sauces because they were always too vinegary and salty, so I decided to use balsamic vinegar instead of ordinary white table vinegar to smooth it out.”

DSC_5778 Jon and Liz are very committed to keeping this a local Island enterprise, from the source of the peppers(a hothouse in Chemainus) to the people they hope to be able to eventually hire as the business grows.  And they do need it to grow so they can make a living at it, they aren’t right now.  When purchasing the hot sauce at one of their supermarket outlets, the cashier had to check the price on it and she seemed to think it was a little pricy at $7.99 for 250 millilitres.  But Jon and Liz say price has not entered into the equation when it comes to customer satisfaction. Jon: “The response since we started selling this nine months ago has been singularly favourable.  I think we’ve maybe had three people who said they didn’t like it for some reason or another.”  Liz: “We sold 1200 jars over the summer and people keep coming back for more.  And it’s not really expensive compared to other gourmet hot sauces I’ve seen online or in the States, which can be up to $12 a bottle, and it’s usually a smaller bottle than ours.  I think that cashier must not eat very much hot sauce!”

If you try the sauce and find it a little too hot for your taste, you’ll be pleased to know Jon and Liz will soon release their Westcoast Rain Forest version of Awesome Sauce, which will be milder version of the original, and they also sell a barbecue rub you can try on all sorts of foods for grilling as well.  For retail locations click here.

I’m aware of a couple of other lines of hot sauces that are made here in BC but I’d love to hear about more, so feel free to tell me about your favourites in the comments section below.

Awassi Ebesse Zozo Hot Sauce was developed by Edmond Segbeaya, an immigrant from West Africa who is now based in Nelson.

Denzel’s Hot Sauce is based in the Okanagan…they grow great hot peppers there!  I haven’t tasted any of these sauces, but I have tried Denzel’s BBQ Sauce collaboration with my barbecue guru, Ron Shewchuk, and if the hot sauces are of the same quality as the barbecue sauce, then you’re in for a sizzlin’ experience!

If you have any favourite hot sauces please tell me about them!

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Island Artisans – Golda’s Pesto

DSC_2652Starting your own business by making a food product is always a long shot.  Competition is stiff, start-up costs can be high and chances of success are low.  But against the odds, a tireless optimist had made a dent in the market with his product.  That’s the story I told on this week on Island Artisans.

The optimist is Richard Lewin, he lives in Mill Bay, north of Victoria and he’s pretty much the chief cook and bottlewasher and pesto maker behind Golda’s Pesto. I’ve known Richard since before I moved to Vancouver Island, when a chef I was interviewing for a story near Mill Bay told me I had to meet Richard because he had a great product.  So we went over to his house, where he was toiling away in his kitchen with food processors and blenders and mounds and mounds of basil he was using to make pesto.  Follow the link above to find out where you can get his pestos…or is that pestoes?  I like his products because they taste good, are very versatile, and can sit in your fridge or freezer until without spoiling until that very moment that you really need a zap of flavour to go into whatever you’re cooking.

DSC_2657 The classic pesto we’re most familiar with is made with basil, garlic, pine nuts, olive oil and a hint of parmesan or pecorino cheese.  Richard discovered he was good at making this while he was running a restaurant in Duncan.  He wasn’t necessarily good at running the restaurant, though, so he put it up for sale. “I listed it on a Friday, and on Monday I heard that the new owners wanted me out.  So at 40 years old I thought, ‘hey this is retirement’.  Not so easy.  I was trying to figure out what to do, and people kept asking me if they could get the pesto I used to make at the restaurant.  First I told them to go to a store and buy their own, but if anyone with an entreprenurial spirit gets two or three people asking them for something, they say…okay, I’ll make it.”

DSC_2647 And the rest, as they say is history. His daughter Golda was a year old at the time, so he named the pesto after her.  Golda is now in university, and the pesto business is still going strong. He had a professional kitchen built as an addition to the house, and he’s traded the tiny food processor for an emulsifier that can make gallons of pesto at a time, and other gadgets that make his life a lot easier, and of course he’s expanded his line of pestos, to dill, cilantro, avocado, olive, sun-dried tomato, blueberry, hempseed and spicy skoogk.

 

DSC_2658 Even though Richard has his pestos in nationwide distribution now, you can still find him at Lower Mainland farmers markets for most the year, because he really loves the contact with people, and believes in the concept of the markets as a great place to be able to talk about your product.  And if you’ve even seen Richard at a farmer’s market, you will know that he is a master communicator, someone who can talk about his product or any other topic under the sun at the drop of a hat.

He’s been at the pesto project for 20 years now, but I think asking Richard if he is ready to retire is like asking a bird if it’s ready to stop flying.  If anything, he is getting busier and busier. He’s expanded into selling smoked salmon,  I’ve tasted some of the line of pickles he has in development, he’s also working with Alberta cattlemen to make a shelf-stable boil in a bag beef product that could be used to provide fast, nutritious meals in disaster relief, and he’s also threatening to develop two salsa products, one that is shelf-stable in a jar, the other fresh and refrigerated made with certified organic tomatoes from the Okanagan Valley.  I say threaten, because I figure I made a pretty good salsa myself, so he promises to put me on his taste panel.

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Food Matters – Defining ‘Local’ Food

Local LettuceLocal Lettuce

Local Food. It’s such a difficult concept to define. However, bureaucrats at the Canadian Food Inspection Agency have issued an ‘interim policy’ that for the purposes of labeling, ‘local’ is anywhere within a province, including up to 50 kilometres into a neighbouring province.

I immediately thought that it was a very arbitrary and easy was of defining local when there really is no easy way of defining a local food. I also thought back to several years ago when I first interviewed the authors of the 100-mile diet book, who are from Vancouver. When I asked them why 100 miles, they told me it simply sounded good. A nice round number, and more elegant than anything with the word ‘kilometre’ in it. But it really caught on and has practically become a definition of local in itself, which simply amplifies the very arbitrary nature of defining a region by a number that sounds good, or in the case of the CFIA, by a political boundary, plus 50 kilometres into the next provincial jurisdiction.

I decided to get some reaction to this policy by reaching out first on Facebook asking for reaction, and today I also visited the Downtown Victoria Farmers’ Market, where vendors there definitely have a stake in this definition. First to social media, where one of the strongest statements came from Sinclair Philip at Sooke Harbour House. Sinclair and his wife Frederique have long been champions of a strong connection between neighbourhood farmers and our tables. Here’s what Sinclair wrote to me:

“The word local doesn’t seem to mean anything in Canada anymore and this definition is clearly absurd. Under a definition such as this, no consideration for direct relationships with producers, farmers , artisan producers, sustainability or bio-region enter into account. In a province twice the size of France, transportation distances are enormous. This definition just reinforces the commoditization of our food system and will further help harm real local food systems. This is one more serious step backward in development of food culture and cuisine in Canada.”

Most of the rest of the comments I received were down on this ‘interim’ definition. A couple of chefs chimed in, Paul Stewart wrote:

“As a consumer, you need to ask where food comes from regardless of its ” local” label. This word has become overused more every year. Just like the term “organic” means something different all over the world.”

Heidi Fink wrote:

“That’s too broad a definition for the term ‘local’. Especially, as you say, for bigger provinces. That would mean that strawberries grown in Alberta cdould be labeled ‘local’ even when they are sold in Sooke! Or meat ranged in the Yukon! No way! I would prefer something measured in actual distance. For instance, within 200 km of the sale point.”

Some of my friends proposed labeling foods as being regional, breaking it down a little further, so Vancouver Island would become a region, perhaps the Fraser Valley. Karma Brophy, who leads culinary tours in this area and who has also studied the communication and marketing of local foods, also backs a ‘regional’ definition and writes:

“It’s not just labeling at stake here it’s marketing and communications and the potential for consumer confusion. Local already has different parameters to different people but we still all kind of know what to expect in the marketplace, where in general local seems to refer to regional foods.”

DSC 1881 1Farmers Market Stall

I visited the Downtown Victoria Farmers Market today, which for this summer has moved to the back carriageway of the Hudson Building every Wednesday. The farmers I spoke with didn’t like the new policy, they feel it will only confuse customers, one rancher says that even though his farm is in Saanich, he is now having to explain that the meat that he sells comes from animals born and raised here on Vancouver Island. One funny comment came from one of the customers I spoke with at the market, though, she said that in the winter, her ‘local’ is California! That statement brings up the idea that we are pretty lucky about how much we can grow here on South Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands. Chef Janice Mansfield has a great take on that issue:

“…while I personally want to know where and how my food is grown and raised, the geography of Canada presents some challenges for every community if they are truly to eat local. Were lucky here on Vancouver Island to have lots of arable land, but what about options for those in Northern BC ? for many of those communities, eating regional makes much more sense, as eating local would be 1)very limited in terms of variety and 2) potentiallly unreasonable in terms of cost.

Also what about supporting agricultural production of products best suited for the land — e.g. Cariboo Chilcotin range beef is a beautiful thing, AND its harder to grow root vegetables in some of that soil! whereas Vancouver Island large scale beef production is not necessarily an efficient allocation of our arable land …

The upside of this regulation — it has people talking about where and how their food is grown!”

 
Janice is right: The message that has been promoted by local food activists has been getting through to more and more people. The pros of eating local include a fresher and more nutritious product in the case of fresh produce that hasn’t lost much of its quality or nutrition in transit, leaves a smaller carbon footprint (although that point is still debated) as well as the idea that buying from a local producer is a better way of supporting your local economy. I think the answer lies in an in-between area. Some of the discussion has to involve what you choose to eat and how it is produced. This is where the concept of the ‘foodshed’ comes in. A foodshed can be defined as ‘a local bioregion that grows food for a specific population’, but also depends on how the food is produced and how it gets to you.

DSC 1890 1Local, Organic Kiwi!

In my case I would mostly define my foodshed as the Cowichan Valley. Many of the vegetables, meats and dairy products I consume are grown and produced within the valley. But my foodshed expands, to include states like California and Florida, and countries like Mexico for some of my tropical fruits, or coffee-producing countries, because I choose to consume foods from those countries. So…I choose first to purchase foods in my immediate foodshed, but then I try to be careful about what I purchase from other supply lines…I want my coffee to be fair trade or direct trade, the same with my bananas, and so on. But you know what? Today I bought some very tasty kiwi fruit that were grown in Central Saanich.

I keep saying this again and again. Ask about the food you are going to buy. Sometimes how it is produced and delivered to you is more important than exactly where it has been produced.

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Food Matters – A Very ‘Local’ School Lunch Program

DSC 1871Getting Ready for Lunch

Breakfast and lunch programs in our schools have become a necessity to help feed students who might otherwise have to go hungry. Most of them rely on grants and donations of some sort, as in the case of the lunch program I talked about today on CBC Victoria’s All Points West program.

DSC 1863Salad Bar

But this is a program with a difference. It’s a ‘soup and salad bar’ program being run at the Shoreline Community Middle School near View Royal, kids aged 7 to 14. The school has a French immersion program and also has a significant numbers of First Nations students, and there is a strong connection with the Songhees Nation when it comes to certain programs, including the lunch program. The first thing I noticed about this schools connection to food was a small chicken coop and container garden not far from where I parked my car. Then I went into meet Kim Strom, the school principal. She took me to the ‘dining room’ where the soup and salad bar was being set up for lunch, and explained why Shoreline Applied for a grant to get this program running: “One of the things we like to commit to here at the school is giving everyone the opportunity to get a good meal, and we feel that it should be organic and as local as possible, within a 20-mile limit if we can, and featuring native and traditional foods as well. For some of the students in our lunch program this is the only meal of the day they get, so we want to make sure we are getting it from sources as close to the school as we can.”

DSC 1878 2Maureen Greive

Local, organic, native, traditional…these are not words you would normally associate with a school lunch program, but that’s what they wanted to offer at the school. I’ve observed some breakfast and lunch programs in the past and kids were getting chocolate milk and sweet cereal for breakfast because that’s what has been donated to the programs. Not necessarily the best food nutrition-wise for the kids. But they made this conscious decision at Shoreline to try to source as much food as they can that is local and organic, and that’s turned out to be the main job of Maureen Greive, who is normally an education assistant at the school, but I would really call her the food and beverage manager these days, and also the main cook and shopper: “It started out with applying for the grant from the Agriculture in the Classroom program. Then I had to put a team of people together to make it happen, and since I’m the main cook, I’ve also been out talking to local farmers and trying to find organic local chickens and get the best price.”

DSC 1869Focaccia Dough

The grant was enough to get them started with the equipment they needed for their kitchen, and some of the cost is recouped from kids at the school who can afford to purchase the soup and salad bar at five dollars a meal, and Maureen describes a pretty good meal: “They get a choice from two different soups, with fresh made focaccia bread we make right here, salad greens and lots of other veggies with dressings that we make as well, nothing comes out of a can, nothing comes out of a bottle. We were worried a little that the kids wouldn’t like having salads since there is sometimes trouble getting them to eat things that are green, but they’ve been loving them and we’ve been getting lots of support from parents who have been sending emails and telling us that they’re happy we started this so it’s all really exciting to see.”

DSC 1862Hard-boiled local eggs

I could see that the kids were very excited to chow down on yesterday’s lunch, an organic chicken soup or spicy Mexican bean soup, and along with all the salad bar greens and other veggies there were some gorgeous hard boiled eggs sliced in half so you could see those lovely yellow yolks that tells you they are from the farm down the road and not battery layer hens. There’s a couple of more upsides to this, the kids that volunteer to help make the soups and salads are getting valuable kitchen training that they can use as a skill later in life, and there is a local chef who acts as an advisor to the program, and kids will also have the opportunity to learn about and taste traditional aboriginal foods, something Butch Dick of the Songhees Nation was there watching the kids chow down and wants them to have a chance to somehow experience a way of life he grew up with: “I think that’s the only way to get them to try foods that I grew up with. I never even knew what a hamburger was until I was around 16 years old. Most of our diet consisted of things from the ocean, not fast food or stuff that you buy from corner stores.” Butch figures he should get his hands on some halibut heads or salmon heads to toss into a fish soup, the kind of soup he grew up on.

Do you know of an innovative school lunch or breakfast program like this one? Let me know in the comments section…

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Food Matters – ‘Local’ Bees

We’ve been hearing a lot about honey bees over the past few years; declining populations, danger from pesticides or predators, and the threat of a weakened North American food system because of a lack of these valuable pollinators. Recently I discovered a wild and local link to this story right in my own backyard.

In a sense I’ve become a backyard beekeeper, but not in the ways we’ve been hearing about lately. I know that there is a resurgence going on with backyard hives that are used both as a way to pollinate agricultural crops and to produce delicious honey. But since I have had a bit of a phobia about bees since I was a kid I decided to take a more passive approach to the whole idea of beekeeping.

A phobia?
Perhaps, although I was never stung by a bee when I was younger, all I know is that I was terrified of them, and whenever I saw a bee anywhere near me I would just run away as fast as I could. To this day I have never been stung by a bee. One wasp, yes. But no beestings. I have calmed down a bit. I know that bees generally won’t bother you if you don’t bother them, so I can hang out in a garden and stay put.

Mason Bee CondosMason Bee Condos

When I really started studying local food, I learned about mason bees. Bees that don’t build hives, don’t produce honey, but are very important pollinators. A couple of years ago a friend bought me a mason bee nest. It’s a block of about five layers of hard plastic with long holes in each layer. You put the block in a open-sided cedar box and hang the box near your garden. In the spring you can buy some mason bee cocoons, place them close to the nesting box and with any luck the bees will emerge, mate and the females lay eggs in the holes, four or five for each one, with pollen for food and a layer of mud in between. The eggs hatch, turn into larvae, which spin cocoons and then hibernate until the following February or so, when they tunnel out of the holes and start the whole process over again. This year my little mason bee condo is almost full. In the fall I need to remove the cocoons, clean them of any pests, and store them carefully so I can increase their chances of reproduction next year. Apparently it’s easy to do.

InsulationInsulation

There is more of a buzz in my backyard, though. I was moving some fibreglass batting that I use to insulate the enclosure protecting my wellhead. As I picked up the fibreglass I heard it buzzing. I put it down. Then I studied it. In between the layers of insulation I saw one big bee and a few smaller bees crowded together. I managed to pick up the layers and put them into a garbage can so that the bees were still exposed.

And I didn’t run away! But I did it after sunset when they had calmed down. Over the next few days I could see them building a hive of some sort, and that’s when I thought a stray honeybee queen had started a hive. I took a few photos and sent them to Bob Liptrot, the beekeeper at the Tugwell Creek Honey Farm and Meadery near Sooke. He wrote back to tell me that they aren’t honey bees, but bumble bees, that they are important pollinators, especially during cool, damp springs, and that I should protect them without moving the nest more than ten metres from where I found it so that any workers out foraging can find their way back.

BeehiveBeehive

I ended up not moving anything. The garbage can with the insulation and the hive is under the shade of a huge blossoming chestnut tree I have on the property that is such good bee food whenever I walk near it I can hear the whole tree buzzing. So I have simply perched the top of the garbage can on the insulation to keep out the rain and the bees seem to be moving the insulation to close off any large gaps. At the end of the season the queen will lay some eggs that have some potential to become new queens, and when they hatch they will find hiding spots for the winter and then start their own new hives next spring, and the workers will die and my fibreglass will be abandoned.

To learn more about their life cycle and value as pollinators I called Gord Hutchings, a South Island entomologist who gives talks and lectures about native bees and helps people relocate bumblebees. He’s also working on a project with Merridale Cider to install dozens of mason bee condos in the orchard there so they will always have a great source of pollinators every spring when the trees blossom. He told me that we have really forgotten the importance of these indigenous bees (honey bees don’t exist naturally in North America) to pollination and that everyone should think about preserving habitat for them as well as encouraging nesting. He has a fascinating website so have a look at it and I will try to go with him on one of the visits he makes to Merridale to take care of the mason bees there.

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Food Matters – Artisan Jammers

DSC 1764“ooh, yeah, we’re jammin’…”

It may be a little too early in the year to mention fruit, when many of our fruit-producing plants are either still to blossom or just finishing setting their fruit. But I always looks ahead to re-stocking his pantry and right now my supplies of jams and jellies are reaching what I feel is a critical level. And I’m relying on local artisans to fill some space.

I actually make many more jars of sweet preserves than my wife and I could possible consume in the course of a year but we like to gift a lot of them. Not only when we visit friends and family, but when people visit us they often leave with a jar or two of something or other. So as soon as the strawberries start coming in you will likely find me in the kitchen again and then throughout the summer and fall with raspberries, blueberries, apricots, plums, and so on. It’s a built-in gene that never seems to let me down for tasty consumption over the winter. But, I have to say that I am a fairly traditional jam and jelly maker and this time of year when my shelves are getting a little bare I like to seek out some non-traditional flavours and techniques.

DSC 1767Melanie Mulherin

A couple of weeks ago I did a quick day-trip to Salt Spring Island. The Saturday market in Ganges is already in full-swing and while I went there to visit one specific artisan it’s not hard to find around half a dozen other people who are also jam, jelly and marmalade makers. But I do want to feature Melanie Mulherin of the Simply Salty Kitchen Company. I met her through her Facebook page and her blog was intrigued by some of her novel creations like Pink Grapefruit and Rhubarb Jam-A-Lade, Meyer Lemon and Lavender Marmalade and Candied Jalapenos. When I got to her booth at the market it was literally jammed with people tasting and buying her products, but when there was a bit of a lull I asked her how she got into her business. At first it was a way to make some spare cash, join in the Ganges Market and meet some people in her new community after she and her husband recently moved to Salt Spring. But she told me, “It turned into a full-time job very quickly, and I’ve been able to meet all the goals that I set, being part of this wonderful market and meeting so many great people in my community.”

DSC 1753Some Simply Salty Samples…

I also asked Melanie about why she thinks her products are different: “I develop recipes that are unique, putting things together that you normally wouldn’t think of, like the pink grapefruit and rhubarb, for example. I also try to make sure that many of my flavours will go perfectly with cheese, since we have so many great cheeses that are made here on the island, when you put my preserves alongside the cheese it’s something special.”

That’s what I’m looking for when I buy preserves rather than make them myself. I want something different.  Of course it has to start with the quality of the product, but then you have to have the creativity that stands out, as Melanie has done with these different concepts blending unexpected flavours together, and the most important factor starts even before you taste the product, with the packaging. I love the Simply Salty Kitchen packaging. The fonts employ the shape of homespun handwriting, along with old-fashioned typewriter face, with both labels and tags for the jars.  So the packaging is something that takes up a lot of her time: “I wanted people to see that I care about my product and that I am professional and care about food safety. So I spend hours and hours cutting and pasting and tying labels on the jars.”

DSC 1756Candied Jalapenos

Her top sellers right now are her tomato jam, the pink grapefruit and rhubarb jam-a-lade and her candied jalapenos. I had to hold myself back from eating the whole jar I bought from Melanie or else I wouldn’t have had any left for Jo-Ann Roberts to try on All Points West this afternoon. For now Melanie is quite content to sell at the Salt Spring Saturday market but she is also supplying the farm shop at Salt Spring Island Cheese, a natural connection, and when the cheese company opens its new shop in the Victoria Public Market this summer, I have a feeling she is going to get even busier with jamming and labeling.

DSC 1736Stir Crazy Whisky Marmalade

A few stalls down I started tasting this Seville Marmalade flavoured with Scotch from ‘Stir Crazy on Saltspring’. Lesley Wypkema of the All Seasons Bed & Breakfast makes this preserve, with the bitter orange flavour smoothed and enhanced by the whisky. When I asked Lesley why she started making her preserves, she answered that she really wanted to be part of the Saturday market, just like Melanie, and if you have never been to the market you don’t know what you’re missing.

I’ve also been sent some samples from other artisan preservers in our listening region, who are concentrating on creating products from truly wild native fruits, so from Susan Canning at Wild West Coast Rainforest products in Powell River I have samples of wild blueberry and dewberry spreads, she also makes a Nootka Rose petal jelly and a huckleberry stir fry sauce. Then from up on Quadra Island I was sent some wild crafted fruit butter samples including huckleberry, salal and even fir tip butter from Rod Burns at Bold Point Farmstay…these butters are made with less sugar and a special pectin that makes them desirable for diabetics looking for an alternative. Of course these kinds of products are especially labour intensive to make since you have to factor in the harvesting of the wild products as well…and Rod points out it’s not always easy to harvest salal berries when you might be joined by a bear interested in the same fruit!

Do you have a favourite Made-In-BC preserve? I would love to hear about it in the comments below…

To listen to an mp3 file of my chat with Jo-Ann Roberts of All Points West, click here for the audio link and please wait until the CBC promo plays before you hear my dulcet tones…

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