Mainly Because of the Meat – Homemade Pastrami

Brined before smokingThe other day I was listening to CBC Radio and the topic of discussion was the great delicatessens of North America.  There was talk of Montreal smoked meat sandwiches, the historic delis of New York City, and the decline of the number of delis and the expertise and dedication needed to run them. 

At that point I decided I should gain some of that expertise myself.  I consulted my Charcuterie book, then stopped in at the Cowichan Valley Meat Market and picked up a 5+ pound piece of trimmed brisket. I was determined to make a nice piece of pastrami. Later that evening I created a brine and stuck the brisket in it for 4 days.  At noon today I pulled it out of the brine, rinsed it, dried it, and rubbed with some toasted black pepper, coriander and cumin.  On to my Traeger smoker it went…for six hours. 

I was looking for an internal temperature of 165 degrees F, but after 6 hours I had only made it to 130. I think it had something to do with the fact that the temperature outside was hovering around the freezing mark, so I pulled it off the smoker, wrapped it in foil and finished it in my convection oven at 300F with my never-fail meat probe watching the internal temperature for me.

DSC_1286 Here's the brisket as it came out of the oven.  You are then supposed to steam the pastrami for another few hours to make it nice and tender, but we couldn't wait. 

DSC_1291 I sliced it as thinly as I could while Ramona got out the rye bread, mustard, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese.  Time for Reuben sandwiches!

DSC_1296 Here's most of our dinner…Reuben sandwich with rye and flax bread from True Grain Organic Bakery, my own dill pickles and frites made in the T-Fal Acti-Fryer I'm testing out right now.  More about that later, but everything was yummy.  Now, what to do with 5 more pounds of pastrami???

Oh, and I'd love to make my own sauerkraut as well…

Posted in All You Can Eat Test Kitchen, Barbecue | 3 Comments

Island Artisans – Teapots from the Art Farm

IMG_8152‘a r t f a r m’ is the dream of Margit Nelleman and Victor Vesely, a couple who moved from Vancouver to North Cowichan to live their dream of combining a farm with a gallery and teashop. 

Victor was a communications staffer for the David Suzuki Foundation, Margit, a potter and educator who grew up on a farm in Denmark.  Now she’s back on a farm, creating teapots that quickly reminded me of the artistic style in the animated portion of the old Beatles movie, ‘Yellow Submarine’. 

Elongated pour spouts, bulbous belly-like pots, whimsical tops, elaborate designs painstakingly etched by hand into the teapots.  The whole process of making her teapots is labour-intensive, as she doesn’t use a traditional potter’s wheel, everything is built by hand using coils of clay piled one upon another.

IMG_8149 One of my favourite creations in the shop is a teapot called ‘High Tea’.  The pot is about two and a half feet tall, enough to satisfy any Mad Hatter tea party.  (High Tea is the pot she is posing with in the photo) 

“All of my pots are fully functional,” says Margit, no matter how big or small, although some people may use them just for special occasions or ceremonial purposes.

This weekend, (Dec. 5th and 6th 2009) there is an open house at the farm. Drop in to taste tea, see Margit's creations as well as that of two glass artisans, and enter a contest to win one of her teapots.  Click this link for more details.

IMG_8159 When it comes to what to brew in the teapots, Margit and Victor decided to import fairly-traded teas from around the world in an effort to keep artisan tea brewers in business.  She cracked open a canister of pine-smoked Chinese black lap sang tea for me.  Its fragrance rapidly curled out of the can, the smoke and tea and pine creating a heady fragrance, as did the hand-rolled little balls of jasmine tea.  My favourite, though, is their traditional Earl Grey tea that has been enhanced with lavender grown on their own farm.  They make other blends with home-grown mint, chamomile, stevia and calendula.

A r t f a r m – www.artfarm.ca  8350 Richards Trail, North Cowichan

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Can An iPhone app Save My Life?

Lose itApparently, my LDL cholesterol level is creeping up.  Whereas my HDL is fine and my HDL-LDL ratio is good.  What does this mean? Confusion to me, but to my doctor it raises a small warning flag when it comes to the risk of heart attack.

He doesn't want to put me on drugs to lower the cholesterol, recommending diet and exercise instead. Gee, aren't I allergic to those?

Those recce's are nothing new from my doctor, but this time he really meant it.  Then my wife Ramona came up with this iPhone app called Lose It.  

We both installed it, set our goals, (it's very user friendly) and starting keeping track of what we eat and how much we exercise. It does all the calorie calculating and shows how you are doing on a daily and weekly basis as far as meeting your calorie goals.  The search function has thousands of food items in it, but you can also add new foods, as long as you make sure you assign a calorie count to a new entry.

I set my Lose It app to help me lose 1 pound a week, which means I am only supposed to eat just over 2000 calories a day. (you get to eat more if you exercise)  But after two weeks I am already down more than 5 pounds!  

Now, the mitigating factors:  There hasn't been a lot of eating out….I find it easier to control the calories when I'm cooking.  The geek factor is also keeping me going for now.  I love keeping track of the calories and love when I do some exercise so I can eat a couple of hundred more calories that day.  I like learning how many calories are in some of my everyday foods that have surprised me so much.

It's easier to exercise when I am in Cobble Hill.  I have lots of wood to chop and stack, leaves to rake, and circle routes to walk to get the mail. Walking, chopping, gardening and even vacuuming all have their own particular time/calories burned. 

So, losing weight and exercising are fun for now…it may get a little more difficult as we get into the holiday season. But I have to go and see my doctor again in early January…

Posted in Announcements, Current Affairs | 1 Comment

Remembering James Barber

DSC_1526A funny thing happened yesterday. I pulled a grass-fed beef chuck steak out of the freezer for dinner and thought of James Barber.

I remembered that he had a recipe for chuck steak in an old cookbook of his that I have owned since 1983, the second cookbook I ever owned, called 'Flash In the Pan'.

In the recipe you brown a huge chuck steak and then simmer it in a rich sauce you develop with onions, garlic, tomato, oregano, vinegar, cayenne and cocoa.  Yes, cocoa.  He called it Tijuana Barbecue, and it was an adaptation from a recipe he learned from a woman while visiting that infamous Mexican border town.  I don't think there was anywhere in the world he visited that didn't result in him bringing back an adaptation of a traditional recipe.

Anyway, the steak and its sauce were delicious, and after dinner my wife asked me, 'When was it that James died?'  I thought for a second, then realized it was about two years ago this time of year. A quick consultation for his obit and I had the exact answer. Two years ago today, November 29th, 2007.

Was it his spirit reaching out to guide me to that recipe one day before the anniversary ?  Nah.  I just like to think his influence continues to affect me, and affect everyone else who loved James and his no-nonsense, unpretentious recipes and food philosophy.

IMG_8851 This is that cookbook, well-stained and abused.  I used it a lot in the years after I picked it up at a garage sale in Terrace, BC.  This morning Ramona and I were paging through it, noting all the recipes I had tried, as I had circled them by page number in the index, and I thought we should make another James recipe tonight in his honour.  I had a couple of chicken leg and thigh combos in the freezer, so out they came while I considered the chicken dishes in Flash In The Pan.

I settled on an old favourite, Chicken Tovarich.  How could I resist after re-reading his introduction?

"Wolves, beautiful women in horsedrawn sleighs, ice and snow everywhere, and potatoes and vodka. You know what Russia is like.  A primitive version of North Dakota.  It was quite a shock to find that there are light, joyous, sunny dishes in Russia, food made with sun-warmed fruits, and exciting at an Italian ever imagined – all of them easy to make and most of them digestible, even without vodka."

And so tonight it's Chicken Tovarich, chicken, red wine, walnuts, onion, garlic and tomatoes, with lemon juice and peas to liven it up.  Another Barber bonanza.  Thanks, James.

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My documentary on Cowichan Bay becoming Canada's first Cittaslow or Slow City aired last weekend across American on the environment radio show Living On Earth. See the transcript and pics at this link http://www.loe.org/shows/shows.htm?programID=09-P13-00047#feature4
Page up for audio.
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Island Artisans – Cosmo Knives

This week on ADSC_1140ll Points West I introduced listeners to Seth Burton of Cosmo Knives on Salt Spring Island. 

I’ve collected a few knives over the years…my bread knife, my filleting knife, various paring knives, a cleaver, and a bunch of knives commonly known as chef’s knives, the all-purpose sort that can be used for most chores in the kitchen, slicing, cutting, chopping.  I have my favourites, but I am always on the lookout for the next great knife, one that might feel better in my hand, keep its edge longer, slices a tomato better…so when I heard about Seth Burton’s shop on Salt Spring Island, I had to go visit.

Seth’s Cosmo Knives are made pretty much from scratch.  He starts out with raw hunks of steel, heats them and presses them and rolls them and cuts them and grinds them and seasons them and so on, until he has a finished product.  His shop, not far from the Fulford Harbour ferry terminal, is jammed with grinders and presses and a forge, much of it built or designed by Seth himself.

DSC_1150 Seth just found a 6,000 pound metal roller in Quebec, bought it and had it shipped on the train to Vancouver, where a friend with a BIG truck picked it up.  This device helps him take layers of heated metal and flatten them out so he can cut the raw form of the knife out of it. It really helps him make his special line of Damascus steel knives.

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Damascus steel was originally created in 900 or so AD, but the Damascus steel we know today consists of many layers of steel laminated onto a central core.  The way the layers are folded and processed and etched with acid creates incredible patterns on the blade of the knife.  If you like knives, you look at this kind of knife you want one…the picture here is of some of his first efforts in making knives from the steel he can now roll out.

DSC_1124 Seth started off as a cabinet maker, thought that was what he wanted to do, then dabbled in blacksmithing and making tools, a friend of his asked him to make a knife, and then he and that same friend shared a little voyage of discovery, where he came across a famous knife maker in the U.S. Southwest.  He spent just an hour and a half with him, but by the end of that time he knew what he needed to get into the business in a serious way, and more importantly, that he could make a living at it.

As I walked around the shop with Seth, I realized just how many steps it takes to make one of his knives…forging, rolling, cutting, grinding, handle making, polishing.  He’s approaching the 1500 mark now, every knife has the name of his company, Cosmo, stamped into it, and the number of the knife.  Prices range from about 200 dollars, all the way up to say 800 depending on the complexity of the construction.  When you consider how much work goes into each piece, though, and the quality of the metal and the assembly, it’s not really that much more than a factory-made knife.  I think it would be a great Christmas gift for the foodie in your life who has everything.  Hint, hint, hint!  But order now, as these are truly made to order.  Go to his website for more info.

Cosmo This is the latest knife he's made in the new steel he's dubbed 'Damacore'.  Beautiful, isn't it?  Retails for $795.  Worth every penny…

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