Pacific Palate – Recipes from Sicily

Img_1740 On a special Wednesday morning edition of Pacific Palate, I shared two recipes from my recent visit to Sicily…fennel and orange salad, and fish cuscus.

This salad that I had in Catania, Sicily, was made with blood oranges.  It’s past the season for those oranges now in Canada, but you can use sweet, seedless navel oranges instead.

Fennel and Blood Orange Salad
Blood oranges have a very sweet, dark flavour and are almost purply inside. Use regular, seedless navel oranges if you can’t find them.

Ingredients:
2 large bulbs fennel
2 blood oranges
2 stalks of celery, leaves included
1/2 cup small black Italian or French olives
extra-virgin olive oil
salt and pepper to taste

Cut the stalks and any bad spots off the fennel bulb and reserve a few of the fronds.  Slice the fennel crosswise into the thinnest slices you can make.  (I use a Japanese mandolin for this)  Layer the fennel onto a wide plate or shallow casserole.  Slice the skin off the blood oranges and then cut crosswise into narrow slices.  Place the blood orange slices over top of the fennel.  Chop the celery stocks and leaves together and sprinkle over the orange.  Add salt and pepper to taste, and drizzle all over with olive oil.  Top with the olives and garnish with a few of the fennel fronds.  Serve cold or at room temperature.  Serves 4.

Img_1630_1 Today’s second recipe is for fish cuscus.  I tried two different recipes.  The top photo is from a restaurant in Trapani, which was a very simple presentation of the bowl of couscous, and then you had a separate tureen of broth and soup you ladled over the couscous.  It was good, but not quite what I expected.  Then, on the other side of the island, in Catania, we tried it again.  This fish cuscus was much more elaborate, with artichokes, carrots, zucchini, shrimp and parsley adding to the mix with a much stronger fish broth soaking into the couscous.  I think the recipe I came up with kind of blends the two presentations together.  If you don’t want to make your own fish stock, use clam juice, or purchase a quality frozen stock from a place like The Stock Market at Granville Island.

Img_1739_1

Fish Cuscus  Serves 4

For the stock:
2 pounds fish trim
1/2 pound large shrimp or prawns, shell on
1 large carrot cut into 2 or 3 pieces
1/2 an onion, peeled
4 whole cloves
a few stalks of parsley

Peel the shrimp and reserve them for the final poaching.  Put the shells, along with the fish trim, carrot, onion, cloves and parsley into a large pot and add cold water to cover.  Bring to a boil, then simmer for 30 minutes.  Remove from heat and strain out the solids. 

For the cuscus:
1 cup hot fish stock
1 cup of instant couscous

Put the couscous in a large bowl and pour the hot stock over top.  The couscous will swell and absorb the stock, and be ready to eat in about 5 minutes.  Set aside for the final preparation.

2 tbsp. olive oil
1 carrot, sliced on the diagonal
1 stalk of celery, sliced on the diagonal
2 cloves of garlic, chopped
1/2 an onion, sliced
1/2 cup tomato juice or tomato passata (a thick puree of tomato available at Italian grocery stores)
1 cup fish stock
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
salt and pepper
1/2 pound fish fillets, such as red snapper or ling cod, cut into large chunks

In a large pot, heat the olive oil on medium-high heat.  Add in the carrot, celery, onion and garlic.  Stir and fry until the vegetables have started to soften.  Stir in the tomato juice or passata, the fish stock and the spices.  Then add the chunks of fish and the reserved shrimp or prawns.  Simmer until the seafood is just cooked.

To serve, put a ladleful of couscous in each serving bowl.  Then ladle some fish, prawns and liquid on top.  (You can increase the number of servings by adding more fish, more stock and more tomato juice as you make up the final liquid base.)

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So Much On My Plate – Fish Cuscus and Veal Marsala

Img_1739Today on So Much On My Plate, I shared two recipes I enjoyed in Italy, fish cuscus and veal Marsala.  The veal is very simple to make, and the cuscus can be adapted to your individual tastes by varying the amount of cinnamon or nutmeg, and using whatever kind of seafood you like.  The top picture is a dish of cuscus we had in Catania, on the Eastern Coast of Sicily.  Ironically, I preferred this one to the first one I had, bottom photo, in Trapani, where it is supposed to be ‘traditional’. 

Img_1630 In Catania, the couscous was topped with shrimp and fish, and included artichokes, celery, onion, carrots and zucchini.  The fish stock was very powerful.  By contrast, the Trapanese dish was much more simple, with a bowl of cooked couscous presented along with a tureen of lightly spiced tomato broth and shreds of whitefish.  The following recipe is more representative of what we ate in Catania. 

Fish Cuscus  Serves 4

For the stock:
2 pounds fish trim
1/2 pound large shrimp or prawns, shell on
1 large carrot cut into 2 or 3 pieces
1/2 an onion, peeled
4 whole cloves
a few stalks of parsley

Peel the shrimp and reserve them for the final poaching.  Put the shells, along with the fish trim, carrot, onion, cloves and parsley into a large pot and add cold water to cover.  Bring to a boil, then simmer for 30 minutes.  Remove from heat and strain out the solids. 

For the cuscus:
1 cup hot fish stock
1 cup of instant couscous

Put the couscous in a large bowl and pour the hot stock over top.  The couscous will swell and absorb the stock, and be ready to eat in about 5 minutes.  Set aside for the final preparation.

2 tbsp. olive oil
1 carrot, sliced on the diagonal
1 stalk of celery, sliced on the diagonal
2 cloves of garlic, chopped
1/2 an onion, sliced
1/2 cup tomato juice or tomato passata (a thick puree of tomato available at Italian grocery stores)
1 cup fish stock
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/4 tsp. nutmeg
salt and pepper
1/2 pound fish fillets, such as red snapper or ling cod, cut into large chunks

In a large pot, heat the olive oil on medium-high heat.  Add in the carrot, celery, onion and garlic.  Stir and fry until the vegetables have started to soften.  Stir in the tomato juice or passata, the fish stock and the spices.  Then add the chunks of fish and the reserved shrimp or prawns.  Simmer until the seafood is just cooked.

To serve, put a ladleful of couscous in each serving bowl.  Then ladle some fish, prawns and liquid on top.  (You can increase the number of servings by adding more fish, more stock and more tomato juice as you make up the final liquid base.)

Veal Scallopine Marsala

This is a very easy dish to make, excellent to throw together for a last-minute dinner party!  You could also use thinly-sliced chicken or turkey breast to make this dish.

Ingredients:

4 thin-sliced veal cutlets, about one quarter-pound each
about half a cup of flour, seasoned to taste with salt and pepper
olive oil
half a cup Marsala wine

Heat the oil in a non-stick frying pan on medium high heat.  Dredge the cutlets in the seasoned flour and knock off any excess.  Carefully put the cutlets in the hot oil, and fry, turning once, until both sides are golden.  Pour in the Marsala and continue to cook until almost all the wine has evaporated and you are left with a thick gravy.  Serve immediately with some steamed vegetables such as asparagus.

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Food For Thought – Bones

BonesToday on Food For Thought, a chat with the author of Bones – Recipes, History and Lore.  Jennifer McLagan told me how we’re missing out on a lot of flavour by using nothing but boneless, skinless, shrink-wrapped bits of protein.  It’s a book full of fantastic recipes, trivia, and history about bones that is great at your bedside or in your kitchen!  You can order this book from Amazon.ca and save 34% off the cover price!  To listen to this week’s item in Streaming Real Audio, click here . You can read more about Jennifer’s work on her website.

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Pacific Palate – Food of Expo 86

Today on Pacific Palate…I looked back on the food that was consumed during the World Exposition in Vancouver in 1986, and heard some memories Bob Wiles, the executive sous chef at the Pan Pacific Hotel, one of the most important restaurants in the city at the time, the Pan Pacific.  Bob started working at the Pan just a few months after it opened and was there for the whole Expo excitement.

Here are some Expo 86 food trivia facts I found on line:

— 7.5 million hamburgers were sold during the fair.
— Enough Cotton Candy was sold to fill the British Columbia Pavilion to
the top.
— 8 million ice-cream products were sold.
— 4.2 million hot dogs were sold. Placed end to end, the line would
stretch from Vancouver to Seattle and back.
— 1/4 million pounds of coffee was brewed.
— 1.2 million gallons of beer was consumed.

I also made up a few recipes from some 1986 recipes I found at Epicurious.com. These came from the pages of Gourmet magazine…and are definitely 20 years old.  Read them carefully, and try them if you dare.  Make sure you look at the comments that follow the recipes, as they point out some failings, errors and omissions.  For example, the green bean recipe calls for the beans to be boiled for 12 minutes until tender.  12 minutes makes mushy beans!  I adapted the recipe for Clams Catalplana with some success, though, serving the resulting stew on couscous.  Here’s the photo: Img_1839_1

But don’t boil the clams for the 1/2 hour it says in the recipe!  Simmer them just until they open, then serve.  The entire list of 1986 recipes is here, and below are the links to the specific recipes I tried.

Celery Boats with Gruyere Pesto

Green Beans with Coriander and Garlic

Clams in a Cataplana Casa Velha

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Food For Thought – Eating Nose to Tail

Img_1492_1 Today on Food For Thought it was all about meat…eating Nose to Tail.  The program began with my visit to Salumi, an excellent, albeit tiny, hole-in- the-wall restaurant in Seattle that has a line-up stretching out the door every lunchtime.  The restaurant is owned and operated by Armandino Batali, the father of Mario Batali of Food Network USA fame.

Img_1493_1 Armandino retired from Boeing Corporation and opened Salumi, which specializes in cured meats.  He put on a lunch for some gathered IACP members, and it only took us about 3 hours to get through it.  Here is a photo of Sooke Harbour House proprietor Sinclair Phillip on the left, along with a smiling Armandino and his pig ear salad.

Img_1485_1 One of my favourite dishes at lunch, much to my surprise, was beef tripe stewed in a tomato sauce and served on slices of toasted baguette.  I have shied away from beef tripe in the past, but this was a delicious example of how we should utilize more of the animals we slaughter for food in our everyday cooking.

Whole_hog For more on this make sure you visit the Going Whole Hog blog, where you will find postings by Divina Cucina Diva Judy Witts and The Long Village executive producer Kate Hill.  To listen to today’s item in streaming Real Audio, click here.

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Arrivederci, Roma!

10pm, Trastevere neighbourhood:  Our trip is coming to an end.  We have had an absolute blast exploring Rome and have eaten quite well for most of the journey.  Today we stayed in the apartment and I cooked up an antipasti platter of fresh, tender asparagus, blanched, then drizzled with olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper.  Add some sausage, cheese and olives and we practically had a complete meal!

But I couldn’t stop and used the rest of the ingredients we had purchased in the market this morning:  Fennel, cherry tomatoes, radicchio, fava beans, basil, shrimp and clams. Everything was sauteed together and served over fresh spaghetti noodles.   Didn’t even have room for the salad course.

Now it’s off to bed to catch an early flight to Frankfurt, then home to Vancouver…with jet lag and culture shock in store as I have to fly to Calgary on Wednesday for the Canadian Media Guild convention.

Look forward to posting some photos soon…Ramona got to have lasagna today, finally!  And I enjoyed a lovely oxtail stew.

Ciao for now…

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