Food Matters – Notes from California

California coastline south of San Francisco

California coastline south of San Francisco

When I go on vacation I never really forget about the food systems I like to study as part of my work. So it’s not surprising that last week while on a short vacation to California I came across some interesting observations about sustainability.

This time of year we are getting an awful lot of our food from California. Our local farmers have been getting some early greens that they’ve been growing under cover out to the farmers’ markets, but I certainly saw many thousands if not hundreds of thousands of acres of monocultured crops either being harvested or close to harvest when I drove north from Santa Barbara to San Francisco on Highway 101. Strawberries, kale, broccoli, cabbages, cauliflower, all grown in what is essentially desert-like land, which needs to be constantly irrigated, especially in this time of drought that large parts of California are suffering.

The curious part of driving past the fields is that they all looked very green and lush, I saw some sprinklers working and evidence of a lot of drip irrigation. So water is still being used. But the water issue has trickled right down to the restaurant level in some of the towns closer to the coast. In the town of Cambria, where my wife and I stopped for lunch at a very nice restaurant called Indigo Moon Café, we were served bottled water instead of tap water, in plastic glasses. I asked our waitress about that…she said that at a town hall type of meeting, business owners discussed how to conserve water, and the restaurant owners decided to serve bottled water brought in from outside the area at cost, so our 500-mil bottle was 30 cents, and the plastic glass was to avoid having to use water to wash real glass water vessels. And every toilet I used anywhere during our stay was definitely a low-flow toilet. But in the larger cities not so close to farmland there didn’t seem to be a lot of fuss made about water conservation.

Feeding time at the Monterey Bay Aquarium

Feeding time at the Monterey Bay Aquarium

Further down the coast: For a long time I’ve wanted to visit the Monterey Bay Aquarium. This was really the first facility to come up with a Seafood Watch program to help people make sustainable choices when eating seafood, and the message about sustaining ocean life is still very strong there, a running theme even as we watched a diver do a feeding in the huge live tank that is one of the showcases at the Aquarium. And I was able to pick up a couple of updated wallet cards that list the best choices for regular seafood and even the sustainable choices for dining at sushi restaurants.

Bronwen Hanna-Korpi and the butchers at Belcampo Meats in Santa Barbara

Bronwen Hanna-Korpi and the butchers at Belcampo Meats in Santa Barbara

In Santa Barbara,  I was pleased to learn that a classmate I studied food culture with in Italy is now part of the management group at Belcampo Meat Company. This is a northern Californian firm that owns a ranch, its own slaughterhouse and processing facility designed by animal rights activist Temple Grandin, and a growing chain of specialty butcher shop-restaurant combinations. Their beef is all grass-fed and grass-finished and organic, and they also raise organic pork and poultry. My classmate, Bronwen Hanna-Korpi, was in Santa Barbara to open the latest of these butcher shops in the Santa Barbara Public Market, and we chatted a bit about how the demand for the kind of products Belcampo is producing is growing by leaps and bounds. But the drought is affecting Belcampo as well. They need more feed for their cattle than they can grow on their land under these drought conditions, and they have trouble sourcing organic hay, and when they can find it, it’s very expensive. They ARE after the clientele that can afford to pay more for their products, but they really need to get some relief from the drought to make sure their animals are properly fed.

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Deep-fried broccolini and fries

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Meatball sandwich

Belcampo Cheeseburger

Belcampo Cheeseburger

My wife and I shared some very tasty food at Belcampo. A cheeseburger full of that grass-fed beef flavour. A meatball (pork and beef) sandwich with tomato sauce that tastes like homemade, crispy fries and fantastic deep-fried broccolini with hot pepper flakes. A winning combination that made us nice and full for the drive back to San Francisco.

Artichokes Everywhere!

Artichokes Everywhere!

Some other notes: Did you know that California is the artichoke capital of North America? We drove by fields and fields of artichokes and saw them for sale in all shapes and sizes at very affordable prices.

 

 

 

 

Artichoke Soup

Artichoke Soup

Deep-fried artichokes

Deep-fried artichokes

Too bad we couldn’t bring any back! But we had deep-fried artichokes and artichoke soup in one of the towns where we stopped in for lunch. And avocados! Everywhere!

 

Zebras

Zebras

Elephant Seals

Elephant Seals

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zebras and Elephant Seals: You can see both along the California coast. The seals haul themselves up on the sandy beaches to sun themselves, while the zebras are the last remnants of a herd that was once kept in the Hearst Castle Zoo. Now they roam part of the 90 thousand-acre Hearst Ranch.

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Free Food Artisans Recipe Demo – April 16th

Mussels Saganaki

Mussels Saganaki

Please join me on Wednesday, April 16th at 1pm at the Victoria Public Market as I talk about my new book, Food Artisans of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands, and demonstrate a couple of dishes featuring recipes from the book, Mussels Saganaki and Voodoo Spot Prawns. My book reveals the stories behind many of the top food and beverage artisans in this region and acts as your guide to discovering delicious, locally-produced ingredients. Copies of the book will be for sale at Whisk and I will be available to sign your book following the cooking demo. Hope to see you there!

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Food Matters – Foraging Cookbook and Artisan Alley

The Deerholme Foraging Book

The Deerholme Foraging Book

Spring has definitely sprung on Vancouver island, and the sunny weather we had earlier this week has really contributed to a growth spurt in the pantry available to us in the great outdoors. On this week’s edition of Food Matters, I talked about a new cookbook designed to help you make the most of your foraging.

Gathering, and a lesser extent, hunting for your own food is becoming another trend in the way we eat. It’s not new for people in BC to go out into their environment for food. Certainly our First Nations have been doing it for thousands of years, and even today it’s not unusual to find people out picking berries and mushrooms when they are in season, but the foraging movement is now going beyond those common items to a larger realm of edible plants and shore-based seaweeds and seafoods.

Chef Bill Jones, who has been using these ingredients in his dinners at Deerholme Farm near Duncan for years, has put together much of his knowledge in the Deerholme Foraging Book, published just in time for springtime foraging. We went for a walk on and near his farm this week, and I asked him where all the latest interest in our wild edible environment came from:  “A lot of the credit goes to a restaurant called Noma in Copenhagen, which was named the best restaurant in the world for two or three years running, blending foraged food with a new Scandinavian cuisine, and that has in turn been picked up by chefs all around the world and become very popular in places like Los Angeles, New York, Chicago, Monteal, Toronto, Vancouver. The chefs have realized, and their clientele, that these foraged foods are a purer source of food.” 

Stinging Nettle

Stinging Nettle

Bill’s book gets people out of restaurants and into the wild. He hasn’t intended this book as a field guide, but he does include a great chapter that acts as a primer to help people find and recognize some of the most commonly available and tasty foraged foods out there. I’d say we walked no further than 20 minutes in total on his five-acre property and then onto the adjoining Trans-Canada Trail and found lots of great edibles, especially the green veggie that is growing in popularity every year, the stinging nettle.

I have a little stinging nettle on my property, but there’s a large patch about five minutes down the block where I did some harvesting yesterday, and then made Bill’s recipe for stinging nettle hummus. Nearby I found some new shoots of grand fir, which are great for making tea, or infusing vodka or even olive oil to use in salad dressing. And some sheep’s sorrel leaves as well, which look like arugula leaves but are more lemony in flavour.

Parts of this skunk cabbage are edible!

Parts of this skunk cabbage are edible!

Even if you’re not an outdoorsy person, it is still worth getting a cookbook based on foraged ingredients. Bill is very cognizant of the fact that not everyone is going to be able to get their hands on these things, or have the time to go foraging, but he still wants you to get the sense of what you can do. For one thing, he keeps all the recipes fairly simple, and he also suggests substitutes for almost all of the foraged ingredients in the book. So you can use farmed mushrooms instead of wild, kale instead of stinging nettle.

 

 

But it is great to be able to get outdoors and discover more about your environment, which is exactly one of Bill’s purposes in creating this book…it’s not just a collection of recipes, it’s designed to get you thinking, as well: “You really have to be aware of your environment to find the best foraged foods, to get away from the contamination of people and realize what’s going on with our lands and waters, and I think only good can come from that.”

My First Book!

My First Book!

Listen to my entire fascinating walk with Bill Jones, where we discover other edible wild foods. Bill Jones will be with me at another great event coming up in a few weeks. I have published my first book, Food Artisans of Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands, published by TouchWood Editions, and I wanted give people a chance to taste the products of some of these artisans all in one place on Thursday evening, April 24th at the Victoria Public Market.

It’s a ticketed event called Artisan Alley, which includes a copy of my book, which I will gladly sign at the event, a cooking demo from Bill, and tastings from many of the people featured in the book, including Salt Spring Island Cheese, Vancouver Island Salt Company, Organic Fair, Olive the Senses, Golda’s Pesto, Tree Island Yogurt, and on the beverage side you will be able to taste offerings from Merridale Estate Cidery, Venturi Schulze wines and their amazing balsamic vinegar, Sea Cider from Saanich and vinegars, beers and drinking vinegars (also called shrubs) from Spinnakers, and a special ‘Don Genova Roast’ from the folks at Drumroaster Coffee who will be serving espressos and macchiatos. Jo-Ann Roberts of All Points West will be emceeing, and early birds receive a limited edition Bean to Bar Chocolate Bar from Organic Fair. Hope to see you there!

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Food Matters – Buttering You Up

 

CBC Radio host Khalil Aktar trying butters during my Food Matters segment

CBC Radio host Khalil Aktar trying butters during my Food Matters segment

A study published a couple of weeks ago has renewed the debate on what kind of fat humans should eat to stay healthy. The study suggested that consumption of saturated fats, like those found in butter and red meat, is not associated with an increased risk of heart disease. People who love butter are celebrating, but no one is suggesting you start eating it buy the pound (or kilo).

There are good things in butter. Many things that are generally recognized as healthy by the nutrition community:

Vitamins: a rich source of easily absorbed vitamin A, and other fat-soluble vitamins (D, E and K2), which are often lacking in our modern industrial diet.

Minerals: rich in important trace minerals, including manganese, chromium, zinc, copper and selenium, and even iodine.

Fatty Acids… and balanced omega-3 and omega-6 fats.

Then there is Conjugated Linoleic Acid… When butter comes from cows eating green grass, it contains high levels of CLA, a compound that is supposed to give you protection against cancer and also helps your body build muscle rather than store fat.

How do we know if the butter we’re eating comes from cows that eat green grass? That is a question that ranks number one right now of the queries coming in to the Quality Assurance department at the Paradise Island dairy in Nanaimo. People want butter from grass-fed cows. But cows in Canada, even those on Vancouver Island, don’t have a steady diet of just grass year round, our climate doesn’t support that. They eat silage and grains in a diet balanced to produce the greatest volume of milk possible.

Butters I made from Avalon and Island Farms whipping cream.

Butters I made from Avalon and Island Farms whipping cream.

There isn’t really even any truly local butter production on more than a tiny scale, especially if your definition of local is Vancouver Island. Paradise Island organic butter actually comes from Quebec. Island Farms is now owned by Quebec-based conglomerate Agropur. When I called their consumer line today I was told that milk for Island Farms products can come from any farmer in BC who sells milk to the BC Milk Marketing Board, and that Island Farm products can be produced either at the facility here in Victoria or one Agropur runs in Chilliwack. So Island Farms is now just a nice name, instead of meaning that all the milk comes from a co-op of dairy farmers here on the Island, like it used to. I heard from a listener that Natural Pastures in Courtenay is making butter on a small scale but I haven’t confirmed that with the dairy. Avalon Dairy from Vancouver makes an organic butter, the L’Ancêtre brand you will find in some grocery stores is also organic, also made in Quebec. And if you can get your hands on some very expensive European-made butter, you will find the fat content is actually higher than Canadian butter, sometimes 84 percent versus 80 percent, which bakers and foodies love because it creates a richer, flakier pastry dough.

Whipping Cream separated into butter and buttermilk by Thermomix!

Whipping Cream separated into butter and buttermilk by Thermomix!

 And, resourceful people could make their own butter, with that sought-after higher fat content, using equipment as simple as shaking the cream in a mason jar to as complex as a food processor or Thermomix, my preferred method. You have choices in creams, your base ingredient…Island Farms whipping cream is 33% milk fat. Avalon Organic is 36% milk fat. I made butter from both of those. When I called Hilary Abbott at The Creamery at Cheese Pointe Farm to talk butter, by a complete coincidence he was just pasteurizing some cream to try making butter with an eye towards a future product. I threw my Thermomix in the car and went over and made some butter there as well.

Butter, after squeezing out as much water as possible.

Butter, after squeezing out as much water as possible.

The key is to squeeze out as much water as you can once you’ve rinsed off the buttermilk.  Out of about 620 grams of cream I got 110 grams of butter, and the rest is buttermilk, (use it in baking!) so you can see why butter can be expensive. But it’s fun to make at home, and much fresher than what you get in grocery stores, which may have been frozen for months, actually.

After all that experimentation I have a lot of butter in the fridge. So my wife sent me this link from Bon Appetit magazine: 14 Butter Recipes to Consume with Wild Abandon. Happy cooking!

 

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Book Launch – Food Artisans of Vancouver Island & the Gulf Islands

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Food Matters – Sugarboy Bakery

Creating a new food product takes creativity and skill. But it’s also a matter of timing, and market research, and labeling. This week on Food Matters, I told the story of a pastry chef who is finding that elusive sweet spot for his products.

Sugarboy Cake featured on EAT cover

Sugarboy Cake featured on EAT cover

It helps to be making a product that is pretty much universally loved…and everyone who has even a little bit of a sweet tooth would love D’Arcy Ladret’s products. He is the owner of Sugarboy Bakery in Victoria, producing a line of pastries and desserts and candies he sells to restaurants, some retailers and the public through farmers’ markets and private orders. No storefront, yet, but his already rising reputation got a nice boost by having one of his beautiful cakes show up as the main image on the cover of the most recent issue of EAT Magazine. The timing of Sugarboy came about at an accelerated rate. D’Arcy was working as the executive chef at a Victoria hotel that went into receivership, and he knew he was going to be out of a job. So the plan to some day open a bakery went into high gear, and that’s where the good timing came in: “I called up a friend to see if he knew anyone who was renting a commercial kitchen and he said, ‘I have a kitchen and it’s available. Right now.’ So we came up with a plan and moved into the kitchen and it’s great, more than I need.”

The friend was longtime Victoria caterer and gourmet food product manufacturer David Feys. It turns out he is also a longtime friend of D’Arcy’s and is proving to be a valuable mentor: “I met him when I was 15 years old when I was washing dishes at Sooke Harbour House. He was cooking there, Peter Zambri, Edward Tuson, it was a great breeding ground for chefs, I learned so much there. And I stayed friends with David all these years. He’s still around in the kitchen, he makes his crackers there, I help him with those sometimes, and we talk about running a business, new products, he’s been awesome.”

Handmade Marshmallows

Sugarboy is trying to stand out from all the other cake and dessert makers in Victoria and the Lower Mainland with candy making. D’Arcy had been experimenting with making caramels, and has gone on from there: “After I had figured the caramels out, I started infusing them with different kinds of flavours, now I’m making lollipops, pillow mints, and marshmallows. I’ve been able to sell these items to retailers, but that means I’ve had to learn about labeling, packaging, nutrition information, best before dates, stuff I never had to deal with before when I was working in a restaurant, it’s been a lot of learning.”

The experimentation has resulted in concepts like Earl Grey and Rosewater flavoured marshmallows, fresh bay leaf tinged caramels, and pillow mints. He’s tried to think outside the traditional candy box by using some flavours from nature, sourced locally, instead of the artificial flavours and colours you find in most commercially produced candies. So he also has scented geranium and lemon verbena caramels, flavours he learned about when working at Sooke Harbour House.

Expansion Plans: If the right place came around where he could have a kitchen facility and storefront together, that would be great. There are certain pieces of equipment that would really help with the candy business. In the meantime, he will continue to build the brand by selling wholesale amounts to area retailers, and he’s very proud to point out that his wife has had the major hand in developing all the packaging and labeling for Sugarboy.  So it’s all those things that have to come together to be a success…timing, branding, marketing and of course, a good product.

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