Food Matters – Hawaiian ‘Vacation’

Don APWWhen my colleagues at All Points West found out I was headed to Hawaii for a little vacation this week, they were a little jealous. So they decided to make me do some work. But it’s the kind of work I love, touring farms and meeting the people growing food in a sustainable fashion. I joined Jo-Ann Roberts on the phone this afternoon from Kona on the Big Island of Hawaii.

DSC 0840

Kona is on the west side of the big island of Hawaii, the largest Hawaiian island, where there is lots of lava, but also lots of sun and lots of land that is very suitable for ranching and for farming. It’s the third time in as many years I’ve come here, and I have to say that in a weird sense this island reminds me of Vancouver Island. No, it’s not the temperature!
BUT, there is farmland close to the ocean, mountains in the middle of the island, just like we have, and a lot of potential to feed more island residents with local food, same as us. I spent yesterday afternoon with farmer Greg Smith of Ocean View, Hawaii, about an hour’s drive south of Kona. Greg’s Earth Matters company acts on behalf of other farmers in the area, gathering and selling their produce at farmers’ markets and today I went to a market Greg and his wife Gail run at the Sheraton resort just south of Kona.

DSC 0842Earth Matters

It’s very similar in its set-up to our own BC farmers’ markets. Although they could use a few more farmers, my wife and I picked up fresh Romaine lettuce, arugula, tomatoes, corn, leeks, lemons, limes and more, namely some delicious macadamia nuts, some just roasted with sea salt, others with chili pepper and some with sweet cinnamon. Of course there were a number of Kona coffee vendors selling their world-renowned coffee as well.

DSC 0899Ester’s Farm

Here on the Big Island a lot of the sugar cane industry closed up in the 1990’s as employers sought cheaper labour elsewhere in the world. That was a big hit to the local workforce, but there has been an expansion of export crops like coffee, macadamia nuts and now chocolate to provide some more employment. Greg Smith is more concerned about food security for Hawaii, though. Just like Vancouver Island, Hawaii is very dependent on imported food and he’d like to see that change, and just like Vancouver Island, getting enough younger farmers to grow that food is a problem. I talked with Greg as he was helping pick green beans at Ellis and Socha Ester’s farm yesterday. This is a large farm that supplies a wide variety of produce to farmers markets and natural food stores. But the farmers are both in their 70’s, and have a hard time finding good workers for the farm.

DSC 0894Loading the Truck

Greg says the state government is trying to help, providing incentives like access to cheap land and agricultural education programs, but he’s not sure if those are working just yet. He thinks what it takes to get more young people involved is to show them that although farming is hard work, you can make a decent living at it. To do that, Greg says consumers need to get used to the idea of paying more money for their food and appreciating the amount of work that goes into making a high quality product.

DSC 0841‘Here be good beef!’

There is also fairly large cattle industry on the island since there is ample grassland and at the farmers market I met Sara Moore, who works at the Kealia Ranch in South Kona, it’s about 12 thousand acres in size. About three-quarters of the calves produced there are sent to Oregon for grass finishing and processing, and the other quarter stay here on the Big Island to be processed and sold locally. Again, some similarities with problems that BC ranchers face; a lack of slaughterhouse facilities, but the state government has stepped up to build an abattoir that it leased to a private company; and a lack of understanding on the part of consumers on the island that grass-fed and finished beef is healthier for you and actually tastes better. Tenderness is the issue; grass finished beef can be a little less tender than corn-fed beef. So for some of the cattle, Sara says they leave them in a pasture, but also offer a feed supplement of oats, barley, molasses and some corn for about 90 days to help increase the tenderness.

The Hawaiian grass-fed beef is wonderful, even something as simple as a hamburger tastes so much better because of the beefy flavour. We’re renting a condo with a kitchen here, so I’ve been lucky enough to grill some steaks I bought from Sara and they were fantastic, not tough at all when you cook them to medium-rare.  Tomorrow I’m looking forward to a visit to Greenwell Farms, which has been producing Kona coffee since 1850…and then maybe a cacao plantation, as Hawaiian-produced chocolate is gaining a foothold in the specialty chocolate market. I’ll see what I can do about bringing back some samples for the gang at All Points West!

To listen to my chat with Jo-Ann Roberts on All Points West, go to this page on the APW website.

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Food Matters – Cookbook Suggestions Christmas 2012

Less than a week to go before Christmas and I’m sure many of you still don’t have your shopping done. If your list still includes people who like to cook, I have a list of cookbook suggestions to fit almost any cuisine or skill level on this week’s edition of Food Matters. 

I start getting some cookbooks sent to me in early fall, especially when Canadian authors start doing the rounds on publicity tours. But I also wanted to include some books that came out earlier in 2012 so I went to the world of social media and asked my Facebook foodie friends what their favourite cookbooks have been in 2012 and I got a long list of great suggestions, some of which were repeated a number of times so you know they have to be good.

Burma Rivers of FlavorBurma Rivers of Flavor

Without doubt, the most recommendations were for Naomi Duguid’s book called ‘Burma, Rivers of Flavour’. She is one half of the team who wrote and beautifully photographed the Hot, Salty, Sour, Sweet Mangoes and Curry Leaves, and Seductions of Rice. Now she is out on her own and made several kind of surreptitious trips to Burma, or Myanmar, a country that up until a couple of years ago, was very closed and with a cuisine not well known to the rest of the world.

JerusalemJerusalem

Another book that turned up high on the suggestions list this year was Jerusalem, a follow-up to the Ottolenghi cookbook of last year by London-based chefs and business partners Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi. They both grew up in Jerusalem, Ottolenghi is an Israeli Jew while Tamimi is a Palestinian Arab…and they share their stories of growing up in the city and all the wonderful foods that incorporate both cultures.

It’s easy enough to say the cuisine is Mediterranean in style…but the dish I brought in for Jo-Ann to taste has some very Canadian ingredients: Roasted cauliflower salad with toasted hazelnuts and maple syrup as a sweetener in the dressing!

Smitten KitchenSmitten Kitchen

There are also a few cookbooks that I’ve heard about but haven’t had a chance to go through, but this next one suggestion comes from CBC Vancouver producer Sheila Peacock who probably loves cookbooks just as much as I do! Her suggestion is the ‘Smitten Kitchen Cookbook’ by Deb Perelman, who has been writing the Smitten Kitchen blog for the past six years. Sheila posted a couple of photos from recipes from the book, and they looked so good I asked her about the book, here is her reply:

“It’s 5 wooden spoon stars! Like her blog the instructions are meticulous and the writing is warm, funny and lovely. Original recipes, but not weird. Stunning photos. It’s the best I’ve seen in a long time.”

My CanadaMy Canada

Now a couple of books about food that aren’t necessarily cookbooks: ‘My Canada Includes Foie Gras’, by Jacob Richler, food journalist son of Mordecai Richler, who writes about his mother’s cooking, but also about the world of very fine dining he’s experienced in cities like Toronto, Montreal, Vancouver, and Whistler. If you can eat his words, you’ll probably get fat on his descriptions. Then there is the ‘travel for food’ theme. A beautiful book from the people at Lonely Planet travel guides is called ‘Food Lovers Guide to the World’. Wonderful photos and advice on what you should eat wherever you happen to find yourself.

Two Greedy ItaliansTwo Greedy Italians

I picked up a book the other day which caught me by surprise. It’s called ‘Two Greedy Italians Eat Italy’. The greedy Italians are Antonio Carluccio and Gennaro Contaldo, both of whom are chefs in London, England and prolific cookbooks authors. Contaldo also happens to be the chef who taught a young Jamie Oliver everything about Italian cooking. The book is full of very simple recipes…not a lot of ingredients but I can tell just by looking at them, and the wonderful pictures, that they will be very tasty. The book is an offshoot of a BBC series of the two chefs wandering about Italy…greedily eating, no doubt! It’s a real steal, I think, at just 17.95.

The Little Paris KitchenThe Little Paris Kitchen

I have two more TV-related cookbooks. One is called ‘The Little Paris Kitchen, 120 Simple but Classic French Recipes’. The author is Rachel Khoo, who is described in the jacket notes as a London fashion publicist turned Paris-based food creative, whatever that means. While she was testing the recipes for this book she opened a pop-up restaurant which had precisely two seats…oh, and they made a TV show out of it which has been airing on BBC Canada this month. The publicity for this book hails Rachel Khoo as ‘the new Nigella’, and there is no doubt she looks cute and sexy…the recipes are classic French for sure, but apparently a modern approach to Cordon Bleu cookery…so no lengthy pages of recipe like in Mastering the Art of French Cooking, but I have to admit they look pretty good.

True BloodTrue Blood

Then there is the cookbook that doesn’t come from a cooking show! It’s the ‘True Blood’ cookbook. ‘Eats, Drinks and Bites from Bon Temps’, the town in Louisiana where all the action in True Blood takes place. While two real people came up with the recipes, they are written with headnotes from the characters on the show, with names like ‘Burning Love BLT’ and ‘Get You Some Wings and Fly Away’. Probably a cookbook for True Blood fans only, but also gives you some classic Cajun and Creole recipes at the same time.

Have a happy holiday season everyone, and if you want to listen to my chat with Jo-Ann, it should eventually turn up at this All Points West webpage. I’ll be back with another broadcast in the new year.

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Food Matters – Return of the Slow Cooker

Breville Slow CookerIt’s the age-old kitchen appliance that won’t go away. The slow cooker may often get relegated to your basement junk room or the far reaches of a dusty kitchen cupboard, but every few years cookbook authors decree it’s time to take another look at a somewhat underused device. I have been slow cooking for the past week or so and presented my results on this week’s edition of Food Matters.

The slow cooker actually hit North American kitchens in 1971. That was the year a company called Rival bought out another company called the Naxon Utilities Corporation of Chicago. It had been making a device called the Naxon Beanery All-Purpose Cooker. Not a very sexy name. Rival redesigned that device and launched it with a new name, The Crockpot, and that’s what many people still say when they are referring to anything that is a slow cooker. The basic idea of any slow cooker, of course, is to cook a quantity of food in a ceramic container over low, slow electric heat for hours until it is done.

I got my slow cooker (the Breville pictured at the top of this column) the last time slow cookers were ‘in’ again, which was about six years ago. And sure enough I used it for a while then, and then away it went into the pantry because I just wasn’t using it. But a couple of reasons made me get it out again and kind of ‘install’ it on the side bench of my kitchen….one thing was this miserable weather! With a slow cooker you can put something in the cooker in the morning, and then return home when it is dark and rainy and not have to cook dinner, instead you are met with the wonderful aroma of whatever you’ve had on the go for the last eight hours and maybe all you have to do is make a salad and dinner is ready.

The other reason was that I met two of the wonderful Best of Bridge Ladies from Alberta. These women, who had been playing bridge together for ten years, got together for a getaway one weekend in 1975. This is where the decided that since food had always been a highlight of their card-playing nights they should put together a cookbook, and they’ve been publishing ever since then. The latest cookbook is called, simply enough, The Best of Bridge Slow Cooker Cookbook.  It’s a topic made for the Bridge Ladies, but they hadn’t they done one up until now because they were actually starting to wind down the business. Three women of the original group have passed away, and the others were kind of losing the energy to do all the recipe testing and development needed for a new book. But their fans kicked up such a fuss they got Robert Rose Publishing to pick up the reprint rights, and then they invited professional chef and food stylist Sally Vaughan-Johnston to join the group, and she has injected some new life into the franchise, including this slow cooker book.

Sally wasn’t an experienced ‘slow cooker’, Robert Rose came up with the idea, and then Sally took a lot of the best recipes from other Bridge cookbooks and adapted them for slow cookers…and went beyond that. She did a chapter called Slow Cooker 101, where she explains what to look for in a slow cooker and some tips you need to know that are a little bit different from other oven or stove-top braising recipes. She also developed some brand-new recipes for dishes you don’t usually think of using the slow cooker for, including puddings and cakes, cheesy dips, she says you can even use it as a fondue pot.

On All Points West I brought in a pulled pork taco filling made in the slow cooker.
Then a sweet potato raisin bread. And finally an upside-down chocolate fudge pudding.
To listen to what Jo-Ann thought of the dishes you can check out our conversation here.

Now available: The audio of my conversation with the Best of Bridge Ladies. Click here to listen. I guarantee you’ll be entertained. To revisit what I reported on Slow Cookers six years ago, visit my blog entry from then.
 

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Food Matters – What’s In An Egg?

Just like many other food products, the choices we have now in the egg department are getting to be overwhelming. Visit most grocery stores and you’ll probably find a dozen different choices in your dozen-sized boxes of eggs. I have been pondering about all the choices and I shared my report on this week’s edition of Food Matters with Jo-Ann Roberts. 

Two eggs Two TalesTwo Eggs, Two Tales

I know I’ve talked about eggs before, but it was more in the way of production of the eggs, this time I’m talking about what is actually inside an egg…today’s conversation was spurred on by a photo I posted on my Facebook status last week. It was lunchtime. I had two kinds of eggs in the fridge. One, a typical supermarket egg, the second, an egg from the dozen I bought from my neighbour across the street, they keep chickens and sell the eggs by the old-fashioned honour system from a cooler at the end of their driveway. When I cracked these two eggs into my frypan on top of some kale, the colour difference of the yolks was staggering.

I asked my friends to identify which was which…everyone knew that the one that was a darker yellow, or almost orange in tint was my neighbour’s egg. But one friend said the paler egg yolk was just the same colour as some organic eggs that she’s bought in the past. So that got me thinking….what determines the colour of an egg yolk and does it make a difference to the taste and nutritional value?

Some facts I expected and then there were some surprises. By the way, before I get started on the yolks, just a note that the colour of the eggshells has nothing to do with what’s inside. The colour of the shell is determined by the breed of chicken….white, brown, pink, Martha Stewart green and blue…still the same egg inside. But the colour of the yolk has a lot to do with what the chicken eats. But that’s not all black and white…or shades of yellow. Chickens that spend more time outside and peck their way through more green leafy plants (or yellow nasturtium or marigold flowers) are eating more lutein. And lutein is a natural carotenoid, a substance that turns up in chickens and their eggs in a yellow tinge.

So you’d think that if your chickens aren’t eating leafy greens you’ll get paler eggs…but that’s not quite so. Chicken feed in Canada is allowed to have something called canthaxanthin added to it, some 30 grams per metric tonne of complete chicken feed, according to the CFIA. That substance, usually obtained from ground up shrimp shells, is also a carotenoid. It’s the same thing salmon farmers feed to salmon to make sure they get that salmony colour in their flesh, so the colour of the yolk can be modified within the purchased feed to determine the colour.

And if you were a chicken farmer who had a big restaurant customer who wanted more or less colour in their yolks, you could try to make your yolks all the same colour by adjusting the amount of colourants in the chicken feed. Chickens who have access to outdoor weeds and greens will have a variation season to season depending on what kind of feed is available to them. Summer drought could equal paler yolks…

Paler yolks have the same nutritional value as the darker yolks, according to Dr. Peter Jones. He is the director of the Richardson Centre for Functional Food and Nutraceuticals at the University of Manitoba. Although he does say the extra lutein in darker yolks could be better for your eyes, it’s seen as an ingredient that could help discourage macular degeneration. When it comes to other kinds of eggs now on the market…the ones with a higher Omega-3 fatty acid content, and now there are eggs with a higher Vitamin D content, he says they do have the extra levels they claim to, as the laying hens are great converters of turning their feed into usable acids and vitamins for us. In the Omega 3 eggs, for example, they are fed linseed oil and flax seed oil to pump up the levels.

Egg TastingEgg Tasting

Dr. Jones doesn’t believe that taste is affected by the colour of the yolks,although he admits he hasn’t done any blind taste testing. I disagree with him, and I’m sure many of you do as well.  It was kind of awkward to do a proper blind tasting for Jo-Ann on the radio show, because I think the biggest taste and texture differences turn up in soft-boiled or runny yolked eggs, but I did bring in some different hard boiled eggs to show her the colour difference and to see if we can notice a taste difference. (She did prefer the taste of the egg from my neighbour, and the texture of the yolk in the OmegaPro eggs I brought in. She felt the yolk in the generic egg was incredibly dry.)

Bottom-line from Dr. Jones is that he feels eggs have had to get over a bad reputation ever since it was decreed by earlier health experts that too many eggs raised your bad cholesterol, when in fact it’s now been proven that’s not the case, and he says it’s great to start your day with a couple of eggs because it gives some great nutritional substance to your breakfast. But don’t get fooled by the colour of the yolks. I’d love to hear from you if you can taste the difference between free range eggs and the more typical battery hen eggs below in the comments section. And if you want to listen to my conversation with Jo-Ann and her tasting comments, you’ll find the audio file eventually posted here.
 

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Food Matters – Olive the Senses

Olive oil has been used as a foodstuff for thousands of years. Cultivation of the olive tree probably got its start in the Mediterranean region over five thousand years ago. Now it is a product in much demand all over the world, which means opportunities to fool the public into buying something that’s not exactly as advertised. Today on Food Matters, I told the story of a new shop in Victoria that wants to take the oiliness out of shopping for olive oil.

Fustis

Clearly, not all olive oils are the same…
I thought I knew a fair amount about olive oil since I studied it in my Masers of Food Culture course in Italy a few years ago and I’ve visited several olive groves in Italy, Greece, New Zealand and even on Pender Island. But I learned even more last weekend when I visited a new store in the Hudson Building in Victoria called Olive the Senses. Get it?

Emily and SteveEmily and Steve

Steve and Emily Lycopolus bring a very interesting perspective to the business, as part of Steve’s family owns an olive grove in the Marche region of Italy, and Emily has a background in chemistry. This mix of practical knowledge and science turns out to be very important in the world of olive oil, and it was their love of olive oil that made them open up this shop. They had been living in Europe for a while, enjoying good oil, but when they moved back to Canada they were disappointed in what they could find, and Steve told me part of it had to do with how the oil is packaged:

“We came back to Canada and we’re buying fifty dollar bottles of olive oil and we were very disappointed in the quality we were getting. We could tell that there once was good olive oil in the bottle, but these ‘top shelf’ items don’t sell that quickly and are maybe stored where they get too much heat and light and they just aren’t that fresh-tasting anymore. When the opportunity came to open a shop like this one we figured we can’t be the only ones out there who are having problems finding a good product.”

Oil SamplesOil Samples

When you walk into the shop you don’t see rows of bottles of olive oil. Instead you see these beautiful stainless steel containers called fustis, 15 litres in size, each with a little spigot at the bottom, each with a different kind of olive oil to taste. When you taste one you like, they fill up a bottle for you and label it. Olive oil does NOT improve with age. It’s best as soon as it’s pressed. Emily says they will rotate their oils carefully so that you will never purchase an oil older than eight months, in most cases it will be six, as they take advantage of the different harvest times in the different hemispheres of the world:

“Right now we have olive oils from the southern hemisphere, Australia and Chile, but in a few weeks time, the harvest will start in the United States (California) and the European countries. So we try to switch over our oils every six months so we can keep up with the seasonal pressings.”

Tasting GlassesTasting Glasses

A lot of people are under the impression that the best olive oil comes from Italy, and that it should be really green when you pour it out of the bottle. But after having tasted some of these ‘new world’ oils from Chile and California I think they are fantastic, and the varieties are usually those that were developed in the traditional Mediterranean olive oil producing countries like Italy, Spain and Greece. Much of the olive oil we see that says ‘product of Italy or packaged in Italy’ is not Italian olive oil anyway, it’s brought in from another country for bottling. And colour is no indication of the quality, in fact, some less-than-forthright producers will add colour to their oil to make it seem more appealing. And that’s why we tasted the oil today in opaque blue glasses, made especially for olive oil tasting.

Qualitative AnalysisQualitative Analysis

Emily says it doesn’t matter which one you like best, you know you’re getting chemical quality first, nothing but first cold-pressed oil with no additives or chemical methods of extraction. But they will help guide you through their selection:

“There’s a whole range of flavours out there and there’s no explaining why you will prefer one over the other. But we work with you, ask you questions about the kinds of foods you like, where you like to travel, and then we can make some suggestions based on your answers…but of course you are free to taste all of the oils in the shop before you make a purchase of the oil you love most.”

Cooking with olive oil doesn’t destroy the flavour of it; that’s where more of the chemistry comes in. Emily told me particular oils have certain qualities that make them more well-suited to cooking than others, and although it has a lot to do with the chemical make-up of individual oils, don’t worry, they label all of the oils as to their suitability for cooking. If you want something different, they also have choices of some infused oils, such as this blood orange olive oil, or lemon. Then there are the vinegars…but that’s for another time. They stock a whole range of Italian balsamic vinegars that also have some very yummy infusions. Put the oil and vinegar together and you get a fantastic Christmas gift, hint hint.

To listen to the conversation I had with guest host David Lennam, just click through to this page on the All Points West website.

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Food Matters – Tree Island Gourmet Yogurt

Bringing a new food product to market is always a road filled with detours, delays and sometimes the inevitable pothole. But when the dreams of another artisan producer on Vancouver Island come to fruition, I like to be there for the first taste, and such was the case on this week’s edition of Food Matters.

Tree Island Yogurt Tree Island Yogurt

I have been waiting to tell this story for a long time…it was way back in August when I visited with Scott DiGuistini and Merissa Myles in their brand new milk processing plant in Royston, just south of Courtenay. They were all but ready to start making a product that has only two ingredients, milk and a bacterial culture, which combined in the right proportions at the right temperature in the perfect conditions, makes yogurt.

Scott Merissa and boysScott, Merissa and boys

They decided to make yogurt as part of a whole lifestyle choice they made when they started their family. They have two young boys and they found they didn’t want to stay in busy Vancouver, where they had been based. Then there was the yogurt epiphany experienced on a trip to France, tasting yogurt that they had never tasted before…because it was plain and simple and not industrialized like most of our yogurt is in Canada. Scott says that got their business minds going:

“And we saw that despite there being a large variety of yogurts on the shelves, they are really made by just two or three companies, and they certainly aren’t made from around here with local milk, so we thought that kind of gave us an immediate in.”

The ‘in’ is that their company, Tree Island Gourmet Yogurt, uses milk from grass-fed cows from a single farm in the Comox Valley and they are using the whole milk, nothing taken out and nothing added in other than the bacterial cultures necessary for proper fermentation…and they are going to play with some seasonal flavours as well.

 It wasn’t easy to go from idea to a tub of yogurt. Once they got the original idea of making yogurt, they thought, hey, let’s make some food and sell it locally. Scott says they got a wake-up call early in:

“It turns out that idea wasn’t very realistic. So we wrote up this huge business plan and we took it to the accountants and they told us we were crazy, and we took it to the Milk Marketing Board and they told us we were crazy…so we adjusted our plan substantially.”

Part of Processing PlantPart of Processing Plant

Because it’s a milk product you can’t just make it in a regular industrial or commercial kitchen, there are lots of special rules and regulations for the handling of milk products. Now, it helps that Scott is a microbiologist, and Merissa has a background in marketing. They still had to jump through a lot of hoops, but they have built a state of the art processing plant in Royston and they are finally ready to be able to sell their yogurt to the public with all the proper licensing and certifications.

Part of the great flavour of this yogurt is the cream on top. Because they don’t skim off or separate the milk at all, when the yogurt is made a thin layer of cream rises to the top. You can scoop that off and use it however you would like for a lower-fat yogurt, or just stir it in. Then there are the additions, including local honey, as Merissa explains:

“The thing about what we’re doing is that we are using high-quality ingredients, no preservatives, no additives, and in our honey yogurt we are using Vancouver Island honey; when we start making our vanilla yogurt it will be with real vanilla beans so that you can see the little black flecks of the beans in the yogurt.”

And Scott points out that you don’t always get what you think you’re getting when purchasing an industrial style yogurt:

“There aren’t really that many honey yogurts on the market, but if you do find one and look at the ingredients, you’ll see that there isn’t actually any honey in the product. They tend to use burnt sugar to recreate a honey flavour, and using real honey presents some challenges in the production process.”

Competition is steep in the yogurt section so they are starting small…primarily serving the local market in the Comox Valley and they will retail at a select number of speciality grocery stores in Victoria, so you’ll be able to find Tree Island Yogurt at Lifestyles Markets and at Peppers and they will be doing some farmers’ markets in Victoria and the Comox Valley. Scott and Merissa realize that while you may find an industrial-style cheese counter as well as an artisan cheese shelf in most markets, in yogurt there is no such distinction. So they want to stay with the smaller grocers they know will be proud to have another local product. The price will be a little higher than your common industrial yogurts but they figure once you know how pure a product it is and you taste it you’ll be hooked.

If you want to listen to Jo-Ann Roberts and me tasting the yogurt, the audio should be posted on this All Points West webpage.

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